WTB: 28" slicks and 15" tubes

[sutyak]

It will likely be late Spring before I need these for the track, but I figured I'll go ahead and put a feeler out in case someone decides to change their setup.
Looking for something around 28x10x15. Brand doesn't matter much to me. I already have set of matching bigs and littles, but they need new rear tires.

[CobraII]

I'll be tossing my set of Hoosier 28x10.5/15 slicks in March. I have 2 seasons on them, they have some life left in them, but I would run them with tubes for sure. There is some cracking on the sidewall. I run tubes, but I'm holding onto those in case I need to go back to slicks. I'm switching to the MT Pro Bracket Radial.

[CobraII]

Meant to say, the slicks are yours free if you want them.

[sutyak]

I'll be tossing my set of Hoosier 28x10.5/15 slicks in March. I have 2 seasons on them, they have some life left in them, but I would run them with tubes for sure. There is some cracking on the sidewall. I run tubes, but I'm holding onto those in case I need to go back to slicks. I'm switching to the MT Pro Bracket Radial.

The wheels came with some 28x12.5 ET Streets on them, but one had some cracking on the sidewall. I assumed I'd have to replace them since there was cracking. So is it safe to run tires with some cracking as long as I use tubes?

[PaxtonShelby]

Bill had a bunch of 28" slicks a while back - probably gone by now but not sure.

[CobraII]

I think it all depends on what you're comfortable with. The cracking on mine doesn't really concern me. I attribute it to the car sitting out on the slicks most of the season. I'm a bracket guy, so I depend on consistency, and can't run tires to the point I might spin when they give up. Which car are you putting these on? Transmission, rear gear?

[sutyak]

I think it all depends on what you're comfortable with. The cracking on mine doesn't really concern me. I attribute it to the car sitting out on the slicks most of the season. I'm a bracket guy, so I depend on consistency, and can't run tires to the point I might spin when they give up. Which car are you putting these on? Transmission, rear gear?

Car is a 2004 Mach 1 turbo with a TR3650 5 speed and will have either 4.10 or 3.90 gears. Estimating the mph at 135, but don't really know since I just bought the car and haven't taken it to the track yet.

[Martin0660]

at launch ...



at 128 mph ...



Any more questions?

[sutyak]

at launch ...

at 128 mph ...

Any more questions?

So you wouldn't use a tire with any sidewall cracking?

[PaxtonShelby]

So you wouldn't use a tire with any sidewall cracking?

If you launch anything like Bob I'm thinking NO.

[gpfarrell]

If I'm trying to go 135mph, I'd want good tires.

[CobraII]

Just my 2 cents, but I think you'd be best off starting with a brand new set of tires. Talk to Bob, Hoosier, and MT, see what they suggest for your combination. Dumping the clutch at high rpm will beat the sidewalls out pretty quick. I am about certain that MT, at least, makes a slick for a stick car. I think if you would use what you have, or mine, you'd just blow the tires off.

[sutyak]

Thanks everyone for the input. Chances are good I'll just buy a new set in the Spring, but I thought I'd see what was out there.

[Martin0660]

So you wouldn't use a tire with any sidewall cracking?

no simple answer, and only you can decide.

i just tried to show the dynamics a biased ply race tire goes through as it goes down the strip, I should of included the static picture too as a better reference to the big end picture.

Tubes change this this all more than I ever thought, and I won't run without them again. Even with the stiff wall slicks out there. The DOT's I run (as in my pictures) are built on the same carcass as the stiff wall slick in MT tires, and I still crushed them before tubes. With tubes, and with a slick I might only run a few times a year (I'm usually on a DOT) I might throw something on, but I know the risk and would watch them to death (I desperately want to test my car on a 28-10.50 slick).

just to drop it here since it turned into discussion, you need to use real race tubes (there is a reason they are expensive), you need to drill your valve stem holes for the tubes, and you need to screw the tires to the wheels if using tubes (I own a template if you want to borrow it).

for sure talking to the tire guys (more MT than Hoosier) will also help make a good decision, just be sure they understand you have a stick car. They tend to throw generic answers out unless you push back.

[Martin0660]

Here is the static picture, not the sidewall bulge compared to 128 mph

[Martin0660]

If you are looking at used tires (nothing wrong with them), pay attention to the area between the sidewall bulge and the shoulder of the tread. That's an area that is abused, and when I break down tires is see they are giving up.

[sutyak]

These are the ET Streets that came on my drag wheels when I bought them. You can see why I want to replace them, even though there is tread left:

[Dan B.]

Sacrifice them.

image.jpg

[sutyak]

I'm actively looking for 15x27 or 28" slicks again.

[Martin0660]

If you are looking for something just to try .... I will be pulling a set of ET Street R biased DOT's off my car very soon. They are 28-11.50-15, roughly equal to a 28-10 slick but these new ET Streets run narrow and the tread is only 9" ... I went 1.45 60' on them at PRP and was 1.49 on a bit more greasy track at Norwalk the weekend before last. They are just to the wear bars so I wouldn't use them more than 20 or so passes. I'm going back to a Hoosier Quick Time Pro. Call these a try before yo but something set if you want to mess with them