Rearend Build List?

[Ares]

No need for axles or track lock, even at higher power levels. The Ford 8.8 rears are tough sob's that will endure a lot of abuse. I've pounded the stock rear in my 2000 GT for years with over 400whp and it hasn't missed a beat. Take that cash and put it towards an aluminum driveshaft.

I'm running 4.10's and they work great for my application. At 65mph its revving around 2400rpm with a 25" tire in 5th. Coming thru the traps its at the very top end of 4th gear(6k rpm) at 124mph on a 26" tire. Not sure if the Mach and GT share the same gear and final drive ratio's, if so, I think you would be happy with either gear. If your careful removing and installing the axles after your gear change you don't need to replace your seals or bearings if both are fine.

I see your abuse and raise you a pinion

4.30 Ford gear(made by Motive)

[cam303]

4.30's and don't look back. This post is full of gear fear.

[sutyak]

I see your abuse and raise you a pinion

4.30 Ford gear(made by Motive)

Would this be any indication of the strength of Motive gears or too much play between the ring and pinion? I ask because I have some Motive 3.90's on the way.

[Monkeygrits]

No need for axles or track lock, even at higher power levels. The Ford 8.8 rears are tough sob's that will endure a lot of abuse. I've pounded the stock rear in my 2000 GT for years with over 400whp and it hasn't missed a beat. Take that cash and put it towards an aluminum driveshaft.

I'm running 4.10's and they work great for my application. At 65mph its revving around 2400rpm with a 25" tire in 5th. Coming thru the traps its at the very top end of 4th gear(6k rpm) at 124mph on a 26" tire. Not sure if the Mach and GT share the same gear and final drive ratio's, if so, I think you would be happy with either gear. If your careful removing and installing the axles after your gear change you don't need to replace your seals or bearings if both are fine.

I already have a Ford racing aluminum driveshaft. I even polished it before I installed it lol (Old Pic Different exhaust and weld in connectors now)
uploadfromtaptalk1453251260386.jpg
I'm already dead set on the upgrade at this point. The main reason for the track lock was upgrading the axles. Just wanna make sure what I'm buying will work like the 2.5 inch ARP studs. I hate doing things twice. My reasoning tells me if I don't upgrade it while it's apart the first time and have to then buy all the parts and have them reinstalled I could've used that money for other things lol. I'll hold off on the bearings and seals though.

[Dan B.]

4.30's and don't look back. This post is full of gear fear.

I agree. I fear the gear.

[Stangman701]

Would this be any indication of the strength of Motive gears or too much play between the ring and pinion? I ask because I have some Motive 3.90's on the way.

I had the exact same thing happen to the stock 3.55's in my first cobra. Nailed 4th getting onto the highway and broke it. Looked just like that where every tooth is cracked and one completely broken off. Scary thing is that it happened only a couple weeks after I returned from a cross country trip in the car, lol. That would have been a nightmare in the middle of nowhere out west. The car was at least driveable afterword, but you wouldn't want to go very far obviously.

[Dickbag 5.h0]

I see your abuse and raise you a pinion

4.30 Ford gear(made by Motive)

Lol that's ugly, how did it happen?

I already have a Ford racing aluminum driveshaft. I even polished it before I installed it lol (Old Pic Different exhaust and weld in connectors now)
uploadfromtaptalk1453251260386.jpg
I'm already dead set on the upgrade at this point. The main reason for the track lock was upgrading the axles. Just wanna make sure what I'm buying will work like the 2.5 inch ARP studs. I hate doing things twice. My reasoning tells me if I don't upgrade it while it's apart the first time and have to then buy all the parts and have them reinstalled I could've used that money for other things lol. I'll hold off on the bearings and seals though.

Nice! The underside of your car is clean enough to eat off of!

[04yellowcobra]

Aaah the age old question of street vs strip and small vs big builds.

my .02 are to ask yourself what you can tolerate? Tolerate the bad gas mileage? Tolerate the slower ETs at the track? Tolerate the large cost of a full build? Etc, etc.

for me driving a 4.56 or 4.88 gear, spool, fully braced, full heim joint, anti-roll bar on the street is no sweat because I want every last drop of ET at the track!

also keep in mind that there is always a next step up for a build like this. Good luck. Let me know if you are still needing help making up your mind.

later
Jason

[Monkeygrits]

Aaah the age old question of street vs strip and small vs big builds.

my .02 are to ask yourself what you can tolerate? Tolerate the bad gas mileage? Tolerate the slower ETs at the track? Tolerate the large cost of a full build? Etc, etc.

for me driving a 4.56 or 4.88 gear, spool, fully braced, full heim joint, anti-roll bar on the street is no sweat because I want every last drop of ET at the track!

also keep in mind that there is always a next step up for a build like this. Good luck. Let me know if you are still needing help making up your mind.

later
Jason

I'm pretty set on running a 4.10 gear for right now. I do a lot of freeway driving. Will the 2.5inch arp studs work for what I want to do? I wanna run a wheel setup like the car pictured below eventually unless it's a bad idea lol. On the rear he's running a Weld RTS 15x9.3 5.5bs with 275/50/15 tire. No rubbing with this size even on the banjo bolt. On the front he's running a Weld RTS 17x8 with a 245 tire. The front won't come this year so I'm focusing on the Rears. This way I can just let the wheels on with drag Radials and eventually get away from my heavy fr500s. uploadfromtaptalk1453786146685.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1453786146685.jpg