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Thread: Rearend Build List?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    Rearend Build List?

    I just wanna know if this list all I need to beef up the rear a little in My Mach 1. I plan on going to the track a couple times a year. Besides that it's a weekend car.
    SCT X4 7015 Tuner (Pretty sure this is the brand Tim uses)
    31 Spline Track Lock
    http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-3...arbondisc.html
    Moser 31 Spline Axles
    http://www.americanmuscle.com/moser-...axle-9904.html
    Ford Racing Diff Cover
    http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-88-diff-cover.html
    Ford Racing 4.10s with install kit
    http://www.americanmuscle.com/410-ge...-kit-8609.html
    Any little parts I'm missing? I'll probably take it to Tim to have it done so I guess welding the tubes and boxes maybe as well? My power level will probably stay the same. I'd like to get the car tuned and maybe pick up some longtubes but no power adders etc. I'm already running Maximum Motor sports HD Lower control arms too and stock uppers. What about ARP studs? I'd like a set that doesn't rust. I'm really not liking having to run open lugs.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Dan B.'s Avatar
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    Seems like a lot of upgrades and near stock power levels?
    Quote Originally Posted by John4cam View Post
    Ahh fuque
    1985 Ranger--2WD, basic bolt-ons and tires, 11.92 @ 111mph.

    1986 Ranger--2WD, 5.0/T5/8.8.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan B. View Post
    Seems like a lot of upgrades and near stock power levels?
    Yeah near stock. Maybe I'm over thinking it I dunno. I wanna do gears so I figured do it once and not worry about it breaking. I also would like to pick up a set of 15x8 wheels and some 275/50 15 M/T Radials. I'd like to be able to drive on them if I go to the track so I'm not swapping wheels there.

  4. #4
    it's soo-tack sutyak's Avatar
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    Looks good. Stock Mach axles break at stock power levels, so forged 28 spline would be minimum.
    I'd go 4.30 or 4.56 personally. I loved 4.56 in mine.
    mark
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sutyak View Post
    Looks good. Stock Mach axles break at stock power levels, so forged 28 spline would be minimum.
    I'd go 4.30 or 4.56 personally. I loved 4.56 in mine.
    I do a lot of freeway driving when I have it out so I didn't wanna go that low. I think the 4.10 will only add 200-300 RPM. I hear a lot of Mach 1 guys say don't fear the gear but I have to say I'm a little scared lol.

    Do I need axle seals or anything like that as well?
    Is the box and tube welding necessary at my power level?
    Last edited by Monkeygrits; 01-17-2016 at 05:52 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Dan B.'s Avatar
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    Have 4.10's in my 2000 GT. Not a fan of them for highway driving. Wish they were 3.73 or 3.55. Admittedly they are not the best for track work but street driving is much nicer.
    Quote Originally Posted by John4cam View Post
    Ahh fuque
    1985 Ranger--2WD, basic bolt-ons and tires, 11.92 @ 111mph.

    1986 Ranger--2WD, 5.0/T5/8.8.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan B. View Post
    Have 4.10's in my 2000 GT. Not a fan of them for highway driving. Wish they were 3.73 or 3.55. Admittedly they are not the best for track work but street driving is much nicer.
    I was trying to have the best of both worlds. Maybe I can't. What don't you like about then on the freeway? The Mach 1 already has 3.55s so I figure a 3.73 wouldn't be much of a difference.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Dan B.'s Avatar
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    I'm just a fan of 3.55's. Had them in the bird with a t5 and have them in the v8 ranger with a c4. Just a nice gear for my driving style.

    I don't like the fast shifting in town. First gear gets you about 20 feet and your shifting.
    Quote Originally Posted by John4cam View Post
    Ahh fuque
    1985 Ranger--2WD, basic bolt-ons and tires, 11.92 @ 111mph.

    1986 Ranger--2WD, 5.0/T5/8.8.

  9. #9
    No Traction due to Paxton PaxtonShelby's Avatar
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    3.55 FTW in a street car.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Cam99's Avatar
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    If you aren't planning on a power adder on your Mach, go 4;10 and don't look back. IMHO after owning one I wouldn't bother doing gears unless they are at least 4.10 (that's what I put in). Wouldn't shy away from 4.30 either. The NA 4v really needs a robust rear gear to make up for the lack of torque down low.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Ares's Avatar
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    4.30 gear minimum. Was perfect in my 2V when street driving. Not a huge difference from 4.10 on the street rpm wise but found them to be a hair better at the track. Especially in first half.
    Ed...
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  12. #12
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ares View Post
    4.30 gear minimum. Was perfect in my 2V when street driving. Not a huge difference from 4.10 on the street rpm wise but found them to be a hair better at the track. Especially in first half.
    Yeah I've been reading a lot on the Mach 1 registry about the debate between 4.30 and 4.10. I don't know what the hell to go with now lol. Most of those guys that had 4.10s wish they has 4.30s

  13. #13
    25 in the 1/4 SlowSix's Avatar
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    I didnt mind 4.10s when I had them but Dan is right you need to shift a lot.
    I could put my car in 5th gear going like 35 mph.
    I'd venture to say you're wasting money on 31 spline stuff unless you're planning on launching the car hard on slicks...


    Just a little 500 whp V6

  14. #14
    Senior Member Dan B.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowSix View Post
    I didnt mind 4.10s when I had them but Dan is right you need to shift a lot.
    I could put my car in 5th gear going like 35 mph.
    I'm the same on the 5th @ 35mph.

    Just have to decide if you want to cruise or race..........if both, then what level of street RPM's can you deal with. For me, I'll deal with slower ET for lower RPM at 65-80mph on the street.
    Quote Originally Posted by John4cam View Post
    Ahh fuque
    1985 Ranger--2WD, basic bolt-ons and tires, 11.92 @ 111mph.

    1986 Ranger--2WD, 5.0/T5/8.8.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    Gear wise I'll go 4.10s and have them swapped if need be. Just picked up a gently used 31 spline track lock and a locked x4 tuner. Sending it back to sct tomorrow to get it unlocked and updated. Thanks pinkpony20000!

    Quote Originally Posted by SlowSix View Post
    I didnt mind 4.10s when I had them but Dan is right you need to shift a lot.
    I could put my car in 5th gear going like 35 mph.
    I'd venture to say you're wasting money on 31 spline stuff unless you're planning on launching the car hard on slicks...
    I figure since it's apart I might as well update the parts and not have to worry about it. Maybe welding the tubes and boxes are a little much I guess. The farthest I think I would ever take at this point would be a ported intake and cams.
    Last edited by Monkeygrits; 01-18-2016 at 02:05 PM.

  16. #16
    25 in the 1/4 SlowSix's Avatar
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    Yeah, not a bad idea if it is apart, but not really necessary I'd think if you want to save a little money.

    Welded tubes is def overkill I think though lol.
    Boxes probably not a bad idea, I've considered getting mine welded since I autox


    Just a little 500 whp V6

  17. #17
    Dead Sea Racing Crew phillysrt4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cam99 View Post
    If you aren't planning on a power adder on your Mach, go 4;10 and don't look back. IMHO after owning one I wouldn't bother doing gears unless they are at least 4.10 (that's what I put in). Wouldn't shy away from 4.30 either. The NA 4v really needs a robust rear gear to make up for the lack of torque down low.
    I can't believe I'm going to say this, but I agree with cam on gears. BUT if you ever plan to go turbo you really won't want a gear that tall. You want the motor loaded a little more to really get the spool going and 4.10's might be a little "light".

    that whole "lack of torque down low" I dunno... he's spent too much time with Obama motors

  18. #18
    Member Mark Aubele's Avatar
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    I wouldn't consider anything less the 4.10s if staying NA. In that car 4.10s are like 3.55s in a fox. 4.30s would be better.
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  19. #19
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    You guys don't make the gear choice easy lol.
    I also need this correct?
    161-M-1225-B Ford Racing Axle Bearing And Seal Kit
    I also think I'm gonna go with the 2.5" ARP wheel studs steeda sells so they aren't sticking out as far. Is there an issue with going with shorter studs? I want ARP studs so if I'm forced to run open lugs they don't rust.

  20. #20
    No need for axles or track lock, even at higher power levels. The Ford 8.8 rears are tough sob's that will endure a lot of abuse. I've pounded the stock rear in my 2000 GT for years with over 400whp and it hasn't missed a beat. Take that cash and put it towards an aluminum driveshaft.

    I'm running 4.10's and they work great for my application. At 65mph its revving around 2400rpm with a 25" tire in 5th. Coming thru the traps its at the very top end of 4th gear(6k rpm) at 124mph on a 26" tire. Not sure if the Mach and GT share the same gear and final drive ratio's, if so, I think you would be happy with either gear. If your careful removing and installing the axles after your gear change you don't need to replace your seals or bearings if both are fine.

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