Roll bar/cage questions

[sutyak]

I've never needed a roll bar/cage before, so I need some schooling. I don't intend to compete, just attend test and tunes and track rentals. I want to be in compliance enough that I won't get kicked off the track, and also obviously for safety purposes.
While my car isn't yet set up for this, let's just assume a 140mph 1/4 mile trap speed. Car is a 2004 Mach 1, so full-bodied, not convertible.
Bolt-in or weld-in? How many attachment points? Brand? Material?

I'd prefer to keep the car as accessible as possible, even keeping the rear seat so I can take my kids places in daddy's "race car".
I can MIG a kit if that is legal, or I'd possibly be up for taking it to a shop if the price is right. I would want swing-out door bars.

Basically I want a bar setup that is legal, safe, but non-intrusive as possible.

[CobraII]

Couple of suggestions for you, then I'll chip in what I think i know. First, check out the IHRA rulebook:

http://www.mydigitalpublication.com/publication/?m=1203&l=1

Rulebook page 84 has the roll bar and roll cage specs. Check page 71, roll bar/roll cage, for a little more info on the ET and MPH requirements.

On the Keystone page, on Contact Us, there should be an email address for Tech. Chris or Don Ickes are good about responding.

Unibody cars don't require roll bars to be welded to the floor, since there is no frame. (Full frame cars, the bars have to be through the floor and welded to the frame.) You can use mild steel and MIG or TIG it, or chrome moly and TIG it. Wall thickness requirements are in the rulebook. Mild steel is heavier, and costs less the chrome moly. Personally, I prefer the mild steel. Chrome moly seems brittle to me, after seeing a wreck up close at a track. I think 10.00 and slower, and less than 150mph, a roll bar is good, main hoop, 2 bars to the front, 2 bars to the rear, swing out bar acceptable. You can get the bars bent so that the go through the rear package tray, and let you use your back seat. If you buy a kit from S&W, etc, ask how their rear bars go. You may have to go to a shop to get them made. Some good fabricators around, Tim (Rodeheaver's), John Koziel (JK Fabrication), Chris Dudkwcyznkackazzz (I'm in the ballpark on spelling! CD Fab).

[sutyak]

Thanks Chuck. So a 6 point bolt-in would be sufficient? Making in an 8-point isn't a significant difference.
Any thoughts on a scatter shield? The only aftermarket bellhousing option for my TR3650 requires some significant modifications and cost. I've read a lot today, and it seems like an external scatter shield is permissible? It sounds like I should be OK fabricating a 360 degree shield that surrounds the transmission where the flywheel/clutch are. I'm just brainstorming at the moment. I haven't even been under my car to see how viable this is.

[George C]

Once you crest 135 you are required a 10pt

[SlowSix]

Out of curiosity, is a 4 point, or basically just a roll bar, without door bars, legal for anything ?

[Martin0660]

I suggest looking at the Maximum Motorsports roll bar. Look at the welded harness bar? The bolt in is tempting, but not legal. The bar is 100% legal (overbuilt), only needs 2 welds, and can be removed after fitting for paint or powder coat. Why I like it so much is the swing out door bars. When I'm street driving I remove the door bars and go. When I go to race, drop them back in and I'm legal

[Mark Aubele]

I suggest looking at the Maximum Motorsports roll bar. Look at the welded harness bar? The bolt in is tempting, but not legal. The bar is 100% legal (overbuilt), only needs 2 welds, and can be removed after fitting for paint or powder coat. Why I like it so much is the swing out door bars. When I'm street driving I remove the door bars and go. When I go to race, drop them back in and I'm legal

I have a MM rollbar in my '14. Fit and quality makes the autopower I have had in other cars and the TC Kline in my wife's M3 look like garbage. Can't go wrong with anything from MM.

[sutyak]

Thanks all. Since I have no urge for a full 10 point cage, I'll keep it under 135mph.

[PaxtonShelby]

Just let off at the eighth.

[Ares]

Thanks all. Since I have no urge for a full 10 point cage, I'll keep it under 135mph.

I'm looking at 10 point or 8 point cage (depends on what some call them, both the same) Dash has to come out anyways to get heater box out. From what I see don't mess with mild steel in .120" wall DOM as it's too close to minimum spec. Which is .118"