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Thread: Proper suspension setup?

  1. #1
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    Proper suspension setup?

    I’m looking for advice on the proper suspension setup. Here is my setup.
    86 Mustang GT, Vortech supercharger 408 making 586RWHP/586TQ. TKO 500
    UPR Kmember, a-arms, coilovers 130-14, 90/10 no sway bar, no A/C, 225-50-15 on weld rims in the front
    Full length subframes, 8 point cage
    Rear upper lower battle boxes, UPR solid upper and lower control arms
    Moroso drag springs (right is heavier), right airbag set to 5psi. Lakewood 50/50 shocks
    3.73, spool, 33 spline, 26X11.5X15 ET Streets on 10” rims
    Car weighs 3330 with me driving it. I always race with 13 gallons in the stock tank (based on the same fill station on the way to the track)
    11.5 psi of air in the slicks, I do a second gear burnout until they are making some good smoke.
    I dump the clutch at 3K and the car hooks pretty good and goes.
    6000 rpms shifts

    My problem is on every shift the front end nose dives into the ground and back up again when I’m on the gas. I have it on video:
    1st gear the front is fully extended (you could put a basket ball between my tire and fender)
    Shift to 2nd – looks like the front bottoms and almost scrapes the track, back on the gas = back up almost fully extended.
    3rd and 4th are close to the same, just not as extreme.

    Seems like I’d be loosing HP and momentum by having to re-lift the front end on every shift. Is this right, is there a better setup?

    I was under the impression that you want the softest front coil springs but the longest to aid in front end lift and weight xfer on launch. Launch seems fine but it’s the shifts.

    First three runs I had the front about ¾” lower than the rear.
    10.96@133.0 1.65 60foot
    10.77@132.7 1.60 60foot
    10.63@133.3 1.58 60foot



    Then I raised the front coils two turns. Couldn’t actually measure the front to rear at the track but it seemed to help. One thing I noticed is, when I raise the front say 1” , then the rear raises ½”. Is this normal?

    Last run.
    10.53@134.4 1.55 60foot


    I was thinking of buying brand new Lakewood 90/10s as mine are several years old.

    Any suggestions?
    1986 Mustang GT, 408, Vortech Si-Trim, TFS 205CNC, 373s, TKO500, AEM, 10.3@139

  2. #2
    Not Bad for 367 SAE RWHP Pure Stock's Avatar
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    Double adj. strut would help with the compression. The QA1's I run (single adj.) only offer adjustment on the rebound (extension). So, the adjustability on the QA1's can slow or speed up how fast the front lifts and the settling of the front is non-adjustable (unless a double adj. is employed)

    Shifting it quicker can also help lessen front end drop during upshifts.
    2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :

    BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18

  3. #3
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    If someone can host of video for me, I'll email you a small video of the run.
    Here are some screen caps I did of the video.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    1986 Mustang GT, 408, Vortech Si-Trim, TFS 205CNC, 373s, TKO500, AEM, 10.3@139

  4. #4
    mustang aficionado SVTGT's Avatar
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    i agree thy differnt front struts if the fronts diving that fast and hard its to much for them the should take the jounce. ide go with some Adjustable one like pure stock said
    1988 GT "SVTGT" Terminator Fox
    2003 Cobra SVTGT donor. (sad bare chassis)
    1990 LXC 4cyl. (turbo 2.3 in progress)
    2004 World Rally Blue STI (Daily Driver)
    1991 5.0 Auto Notch
    1986 notch(retired SCCA car)

  5. #5
    Don't let off the gas when you shift, the front will stay put with a little more tighter on the adjustment.

  6. #6
    Senior Member 383taman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefan View Post
    Don't let off the gas when you shift, the front will stay put with a little more tighter on the adjustment.


    I was thinking of a nice way to say practice shifting.
    89 Mustang (stock) DD
    82 Trans Am (not stock)
    98 Audi A4 (not so hurting)

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