New block is bored so I could order new pistons ...almost a shame to hide them under an iron head
New block is bored so I could order new pistons ...almost a shame to hide them under an iron head
Not sure if this will work, but block rough bored. The block filler sure changes how it machines
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mXecgrogW7MERq8u5
SCE Pro copper ... looks innocent enough
Just out of pure curiosity just for knowledge purposesdoes it seem more rigid while machining? Didnt u use a different filler this time? Did it seem better?
Machinist said you can tell it’s filled. Said “it doesn’t sound hollow”.
yes, I used a filler called RokBlock from Competition Products versus the standby Hard Block.
i guess we will see long term, but as far as actually filling the block this stuff was MUCH easier to work with. Hard Block always feels like it’s fighting you and the iron stuff falls out of suspension. The. rokBlock is more soupy and pours really easy. Went into all the gaps and is claimed to adhere better. It goes off in 15minutes so it’s seems sort of epoxy based.
on mine the water pump insets in the block so I need to use a plug to make space for the pump. With HardBlock every time I pull that plug out, the filler crumbles out behind the plug and #1 jug. ... with the Rokblock I pulled the plug and the stuff was perfect and adhered.
in the end we may never know. We found the old block was .095 where it split. This one is now .130 on thinest spot. I guess if the thicker block splits, we know it’s crap, lol.
In the end we will never really know. I have a buddy that fills his blocks to the deck and still splits them. He is on methanol so can get away without water but makes 800 hp or more. Talking with people I trust, the consensus is the splits start at the top of the cylinder and work down. I’m not filled the top 1 1/2 under the deck so ...
my last block beside the split, the holes was still round so the filler does something anyway.
we are also changing up the ring package for this bullet.
Picked up a few aluminum bends of a few styles to see what works best to work with.
3” charge pipe is pretty big, lol.
Bore, deck, line hone, etc. all done on the new bullet. Ready for final hone, then plan to cut the o-rings sometime over the holidays. Making progress anyway.
are you running sensors that may be a problem with leaded fuel and how do you handle thatOriginally Posted by Martin0660
the only thing affected is my wideband sensor.
iput a fresh one on to start the season, and keep one around in case I make a change that I want a good look at the tune. Otherwise I usually put a fresh one in for the good fall air.
sensors are just a cost of doing it to me. Once I’m dialed in the spring, I’m usually good through the summer without one,
Thanx for response. Tim wants me to go to 110 and I was concerned. A friend of mine says he allows his sensor to heat up before starting and has no issues
The lead will get it sooner or later.
my junk does not use the wideband for anything except a gauge unless I give it authority to do something so it’s along for the ride most times.
typically I come out in the spring with combo changes and use it to dial in the tune. Through the summer I’m just racing so it’s just a reference.
im surprised yours isn’t on race gas already, I think it’s a great safety
I’ve been running Sunoco 104 unleaded but Tim wants 110. At PRI I found Renegade 109 unleaded that I may try
You can get Renegade from Spray it Racing in mount pleasant. He does a big order in spring, but carries a lot and will get you what you need.
i but the Pro 110+ by the 55 gallon drum to mostLy make a season. This year I’m moving to 116+ or a mix. I considered going to the Ignite but my fuel system would be a real challenge.
You ever get tired of dumping money in a weird engine choice Bob?
Considering dropping some more coin on mine over the winter (new turbo, re worked hotside), but starting to wonder if it is worth it anymore and have thought many a times about going to some sort of mod motor.
Just a little 500 whp V6
constantly ....
when I split the block at the end of the season I asked myself WTF was I doing ... the reality is, I am heavy into this oddity, and you know the TurboFord crowd .., stuff I own is worth pennies on the dollar resale, so what can I do? To start over with other platform I won’t get the down payment on anything else out of my stuff, every option I considered is a $10k starting point to get into, and keeping what I have is a couple of grand ... at a minimum, I had to build a new short block to even get anything out of the parts there.
I really looked at going Coyote, but the reality is, I would need a power adder to get back to where I’m at now, and it’s not cheap to build one that can race the way I do.
its a trap, it is what it is ... a few moments of glory mixed with a whole lot of suck ... the feeling passes when it does good, but no doubt I’m playing with a dinosaur.
Having the same struggle.
Really need to drop some coin to get my turbo kit right....
But hate to keep putting money in this stupid setup.
On the other hand I'll spend twice to three times as much to start over.
Just a little 500 whp V6
Setting ring gaps ...
Should be making tractor noises soon
Troy
95 gt 11.3 @ 126
68 f100 SB soon to be coyote powered
12 GT 6m cobra jet powered 11.4 @124
90 lx supercharged 440 rwhp on 8 lbs
17 f150 crew cab coyote powered
PEOPLE HAVE MORE FUN THAN ANYONE
no instant gratification with my engine builds ... one last bearing clearance check, then off to cut of o-rings ... hopefully able to start assembly in a couple of weeks.
Looking good Bob! Be ready for spring?
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
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