Cheater I see the transmission jack
Cheater I see the transmission jack
Ed...
2012 Ram 2500 4x4, 5.7 Hemi, leveled, 35" tires
2004 Mustang GT - Comp Orange/5speed Best 1/4 11.94@113.64, 1/8 7.59@89.48, 1.57 60' - Best 60' 1.51, just a NA 2v
list of excuses ….
im doing it with a right arm with no strength.
im 55 and have got soft
im out of practice because the G101a is so good it comes out once a year for clutch refresh (ties into getting soft)
that sucker is about 20# more than the T5’s I used to press in gravel at a track, it’s just about 10# to much for me now.
beside those, out of excuses, lol
Well as excuses go. Those are pretty good
Ed...
2012 Ram 2500 4x4, 5.7 Hemi, leveled, 35" tires
2004 Mustang GT - Comp Orange/5speed Best 1/4 11.94@113.64, 1/8 7.59@89.48, 1.57 60' - Best 60' 1.51, just a NA 2v
New clutch is in (right arm was actually a little helpful too).
a couple of notes for anyone that is following:
I was surprised (maybe stunned) the McLeod is 1.6# lighter than the Black Magic assembly. Cales stuff definitely uses thicker heat shields, but I really thought the billet aluminum hat would of won.
I’ve got got notes to switch back and forth if needed, but the levers are lower in the McLeod and I need to add a spacer back in to my adjustable throw out bearing.
Hard to describe typing, but the whole adjustment range for the McLeod is much better. My fork was the whole way back to get finger clearance now it’s 3/8” up, an I’ve got much more adjustment room. To be seen if it matters, but this all felt so right as I was adjusting while the Black Magic unit always felt like it was on the edges.
not that I have that much in it, but those 2 clutch assemblies would cost over $5k to replace now. It’s silly how committed you need to be to stick race effectively
Ya the McLeod Soft-Lok is not cheap. Least for a 10.5" for a 4.6 and 8 bolt crank.
Ed...
2012 Ram 2500 4x4, 5.7 Hemi, leveled, 35" tires
2004 Mustang GT - Comp Orange/5speed Best 1/4 11.94@113.64, 1/8 7.59@89.48, 1.57 60' - Best 60' 1.51, just a NA 2v
Not that it matters, but I bet you would end up with a 10” in a soft lok. Pretty common size for most sintered iron and gives you the needed room in a bellhousing. One of my friends is near 1500 HP with a T56 and he was the first i knew that went to 11” (and 6 levers).
My flywheels are pretty custom, and was surprised they aren’t outrageous. The new one built by McLeod, the one with my Black Magic was built by Ram. In the interest of life of the clutch, I still favor the black magic with thicker inserts that are bolted on versus the thinner McLeod that are riveted on.
that’s the “win” with a soft lok from either. New disc is about $100 and service is $250 ish. My first season I send my back for service, but ran the last 2 years on mine and just sending it in now. McLeod has right in their instructions most see 2 seasons on their stuff too. Big buy in, but once you own it service / rebuild is affordable and comes back like new.
McLeod only shows a 10.5" for my setup unless they make something custom. I'm sure i will have to look into a much better clutch. That will wait until next year and I'll be asking you all kinds of questions.
Ed...
2012 Ram 2500 4x4, 5.7 Hemi, leveled, 35" tires
2004 Mustang GT - Comp Orange/5speed Best 1/4 11.94@113.64, 1/8 7.59@89.48, 1.57 60' - Best 60' 1.51, just a NA 2v
I wouldn’t go that direction without talking to either Cale, or whoever is going to be the guy at McLeod. I’m sure they have a catalog offering, but usually what’s better is a mix of other stuff. Need to see your power level once you get going. Always willing to offer my opinion, let you under mine to touch it, whatever
Did something I haven’t done before, actually took spring OUT of my wastegate.
in the days before I used C02, I was limited to a little more than 10# over the gate spring just using boost for signal, so I had a lot of spring in the gate. When I went to C02, I never took the spring out because there didn’t seem to be a lot of good reason.
fast forward, and now I switch between slicks and DOT tires for True Street. I have been struggling on the damn DOT stuff, and decided to start cintrolling boost on the line instead of just using launch RPM. That meant I had to take a good bit of spring out of the gate. Now I’m hoping to dial in 18-22# depending on tire and track, keep the RPM consitsnt, and it should be easier without a big clutch change.
we will see how this all works out, but it’s likely the most significant change I’ve made in some time as far as how I’m trying to get the car down the track. This could be a big failure, lol.
I’ve been hung up waiting for my slot for head machining.
cut the spring pads for the LS type springs and cut the top of the guides for clearance and a smaller seal.
machine work finished today, touch up my valve job tomorrow and assemble head then I can finally start final assembly.
heck of a lot of work to add more lift on this silly 4 banger. The good news is it’s dead on with better spring pressures.
ready for .600 lift now
Troy
95 gt 11.3 @ 126
68 f100 SB soon to be coyote powered
12 GT 6m cobra jet powered 11.4 @124
90 lx supercharged 440 rwhp on 8 lbs
17 f150 crew cab coyote powered
PEOPLE HAVE MORE FUN THAN ANYONE
Managed to get it all together today. Ready to try to start it tomorrow
officially the latest I’ve ever been in a season to start up.
Battle ready, looks great!
Lil' Blackie, also a Rodeheaver hot rod
Black Bess : n/a 347 T56 magnum,426 hp/ 427 tq
Best time at Keystone 11.68, best speed 122.95 mph (right lane)
Built, tuned & made possible by Tim Rodeheaver
Rodeheaver's Hot Rod Shop
15 W. Cross Ave.
Masontown Pa. 15461
724-737-5088
www.RodeheaversHotRod.com
Si I fired it up Sunday and did the first heat cycle. Here’s a little walk around …
https://youtu.be/32QGBJh-ubQ
after it cooled down was able to do first retorque on head, and fill it with water. Getting there.
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