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Thread: Hesitates, no power, stumbles, runs sh*t rich

  1. #1

    Exclamation Hesitates, no power, stumbles, runs sh*t rich

    Ive been dealing with this $*** for a month now... and Ive had it.

    Mods: whipple 3.0 pulley, 60's, K&N, MAFia, BAP, Accufab, o/r xpipe, flowmasters.

    Car ran solid for a month with that setup. One morning I started the car and noticed the hesitation when starting off in first gear. Problem gradually progressed to constant hesitation, power loss, stumbleing.

    Problem:

    o2's are pegged(.98ish) at idle, fuel trims are pegged at -25% trying to pull out fuel. ALL plugs are black, car hesitates at any rpm, stumbles under boost. Lacks ALL power.


    Checked so far:

    MAF's were switched
    new tune was written without MAFia
    EGR system was removed
    No vac leaks
    TPS is set at .99
    IAC was removed/cleaned
    FRPS was replaced
    No misfires
    Brand new PCM was installed
    FPDM was swapped with a working unit
    Plugs were replaced, now they are black
    Fuel filter was changed
    switched tunes

    Fuel rail pressure is normal
    ECT is normal
    IAT's are normal
    TPS is normal
    VAC is normal


    I dont know what else could cause my car to run like this. The problem went from random, meaning it would hesitate, then 20min later run perfectly fine, to constantly like this.
    Black 06 R1

  2. #2
    Just spank it!!! Viper_ed's Avatar
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    Have you tried bypassing the BAP? Maybe something is causing it to max out the FPDM. Did you cut or shorten the RCA Cable that runs to the switch for the BAP? I know that there is a certain resistance value that the BAP sees from that switch that has something to do with the length of the wire.

    I'd also try running it with the stock injectors instead of the 60's. Maybe something is either wrong in the tune or you may have an injector hung open or something like that.

  3. #3
    Modular Ford Performance Wolfpack Speed's Avatar
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    double check your o2 connections and verify your sensors are good. your symptoms are exactly what happens when the o2's are bad...good luck!
    Wolfpack Speed, Inc.
    4290 Campbells Run Rd
    Pittsburgh, PA 15205
    (412) 279-4902

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by KHP View Post
    double check your o2 connections and verify your sensors are good. your symptoms are exactly what happens when the o2's are bad...good luck!
    I will look into that. Is there any way to test the o2's? They do move/sweep during part throttle/cruise speed. And when I pull a injector harness off the driver side, that o2 leans out. So Im assuming they are reading whats actually going on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Viper_ed View Post
    Have you tried bypassing the BAP? Maybe something is causing it to max out the FPDM. Did you cut or shorten the RCA Cable that runs to the switch for the BAP? I know that there is a certain resistance value that the BAP sees from that switch that has something to do with the length of the wire.

    I'd also try running it with the stock injectors instead of the 60's. Maybe something is either wrong in the tune or you may have an injector hung open or something like that.
    Bypassed the BAP. Swapped FPDM's. Didn't touch/modifiy the RCA cable or BAP. I tried different tunes from different tuners, also with a brand new PCM. And the problem is global, as in all 8cylinders. So if one injector was stuck, all 8 plugs shouldn't be going black. Correct?

    Keep em coming guys. Anything you can think of.
    Black 06 R1

  5. #5
    Power Adder
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    I'd remove the chip/tune go back to stock and install the stock mass air meter and injectors and see if she runs better.

    Hmm this one even has me stumped. You've replaced or checked most things that we'd look at The only other thing is do a leak down and compression. M t with it being radom it has to be an electrical gremlin. Didn't you have the car down at our shop(Kauffman Motorsports) to have us try to figure it out?? Sorry we get alot of car with problems and it's hard to remember.
    Chris Kauffman
    2000 Vortech'ed Saleen replica
    1991 302 LX notch Saleen replica
    1988 408LX drag car
    1988 460LX drag car (new project)

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris00GT View Post
    I'd remove the chip/tune go back to stock and install the stock mass air meter and injectors and see if she runs better.

    Hmm this one even has me stumped. You've replaced or checked most things that we'd look at The only other thing is do a leak down and compression. M t with it being radom it has to be an electrical gremlin. Didn't you have the car down at our shop(Kauffman Motorsports) to have us try to figure it out?? Sorry we get alot of car with problems and it's hard to remember.
    The mass air meter is stock. I just have a MAFia. Also, I tried 3 different tunes. I can definitly say its not the tune/PCM. I was thinking about going back to the stock injectors, but I need 60's for my setup, and I can't see all 8 60's going bad on me. It has to be something telling the 60's to run rich. Last resort will be going back to the stock injectors/tune.

    RWTD sent me a tune that disabled the LTFT's and the "adaptive stratagies" in the PCM. I then logged the car at 500rpm incraments for 15seconds. Sent them the file and they went over it. James from RWTD confirmed that the tune is solid. But the car still runs like crap.

    And your right, I've checked/replaced damn near everything possible. The only things I haven't swapped out are the TPS(which is showing proper voltage), the o2's(which respond accordingly from what I can tell), the injectors(which can't ALL be bad).

    I haven't brought it to Kauffman's, but thats not out of the question right now. I may have a new friend(thanks PJ) that may be taking the car off my hands and is going to try to trouble shoot it in his free time. Because right now I dont know what else to do. I can't afford to just keep replacing things that aren't showing up as a problem. I have a new FPDM on the way to my house, and thats been ruled out already. Anybody need one? lol

    I hate the world right now.
    Black 06 R1

  7. #7
    Power Adder
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    Another thing that I'd also check is the crank postion sensor. If it's gone bad the computer doesn't know when to fire the injectors at the right time. When mine started to go bad it would jerk and back fire and slowly got worse. It tripped no check engine light. Just another possible cause.
    Chris Kauffman
    2000 Vortech'ed Saleen replica
    1991 302 LX notch Saleen replica
    1988 408LX drag car
    1988 460LX drag car (new project)

  8. #8
    Thanks. How can I check that? Where is that located on the block? Also, at idle, my timing sits around 20, is that normal?
    Black 06 R1

  9. #9
    Power Adder
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    I'd pull it out and look at it and check for cracks, but honestly mine looked fine. It's located at the bottom passanger side of the timing cover. With your car being an 03 cobra it's going to be easier to see it from under the car. And your also going to have to remove the 3 bolts that hold the A/C to the block so you can swing it out of the way so you can remove the crank position sensor.
    Chris Kauffman
    2000 Vortech'ed Saleen replica
    1991 302 LX notch Saleen replica
    1988 408LX drag car
    1988 460LX drag car (new project)

  10. #10
    Senior Member Rodeheaver's's Avatar
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    sounds like the fuel pres. reg might have taken a dump, pull off the vac line at idle and see if fuel is coming out, also, check fuel pres, does the car seem to be blowing any smoke at all? and what is your plug gap, i know you changed them but with the smaller pulley you may have to tighten the gap... and also i find it ness. for top performance, to keep the maf really clean, meaning i spray a little "air intake cleaner" on the sensor itself and wipe out the inside of the case... just my 2cents

  11. #11
    Thanks for the reply, and trust me, everyones 2cents means alot right now because I'm all out of ideas.

    Car isn't blowing any smoke. I changed the frps, and the frp is normal at idle.

    Cleaned my maf and swapped mafs.

    Plug gap is at .35, which is where my tuner suggested.
    Black 06 R1

  12. #12
    Just spank it!!! Viper_ed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1toSVT View Post
    Plug gap is at .35, which is where my tuner suggested.
    I'm guessing you meant .035. Don't think the gap is causing your problem though. I'd suggest gapping them at .028 though.

  13. #13
    Modular Ford Performance Wolfpack Speed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1toSVT View Post
    Thanks for the reply, and trust me, everyones 2cents means alot right now because I'm all out of ideas.

    Car isn't blowing any smoke. I changed the frps, and the frp is normal at idle.

    Cleaned my maf and swapped mafs.

    Plug gap is at .35, which is where my tuner suggested.
    did you swap your o2 sensors yet???????????
    Wolfpack Speed, Inc.
    4290 Campbells Run Rd
    Pittsburgh, PA 15205
    (412) 279-4902

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by KHP View Post
    did you swap your o2 sensors yet???????????
    2 new o2's and a new MAP sensor are on the way to my house. After that I dont think there will be many sensors left!
    Black 06 R1

  15. #15
    Modular Ford Performance Wolfpack Speed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1toSVT View Post
    2 new o2's and a new MAP sensor are on the way to my house. After that I dont think there will be many sensors left!
    #1 or #2 sensors???????????
    Wolfpack Speed, Inc.
    4290 Campbells Run Rd
    Pittsburgh, PA 15205
    (412) 279-4902

  16. #16
    I only have the front 2. Rears are gone.

    Also can someone try this test for me?

    Plug in your predator, key on, car off.

    Under "gas fuel" look at your BARO reading, the very first one (on mine anyways)

    Then start the car and see if it changes at all. Also scroll down and look at the reading called FPM, it has a ON/OFF reading. See if it constantly switches from ON to OFF about every second or so.

    My BARO stays at 28.1 car off or on. Also stays there when I unplug the sensor on the back of the blower base. Something tells me that the MAP sensor at the back of the blower doesnt record the BARO.
    Last edited by LS1toSVT; 09-08-2006 at 11:43 PM.
    Black 06 R1

  17. #17
    Never mind. The map sensor is fine... the baro isn't supposed to change.

    But can someone look at that FPM value on their predator for me?
    Black 06 R1

  18. #18
    Senior Member Rodeheaver's's Avatar
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    check your fuel pressure!!!

  19. #19
    Thanks, fuel pressure is normal. Also swapped FPDM's and removed BAP and installed a new FRPS. The fuel pressure is normal.
    Black 06 R1

  20. #20
    The one and only thing that looks off is the TPS %. A friend of mine has a scanner that shows tps voltage and tps %. The TPS % is at 14% at idle, but the tps is set right where its supposed to be at .99. The only way I could look further into this would be to check someone elses cobra.
    Black 06 R1

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