Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: First Frame

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Havin A Ball... Screemin3o2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    110

    First Frame

    A buddy of mine and I are working on our first frame. It's his 52 Henry J that hes building into a street rod version of an old gasser. This might be a lot of information but I'm proud of it. We used c-clamps on all the welds to keep the gaps from wandering.

    ***If inserting direct links to the images does not work I will attach them in order***

    General information about the frame: the front rails extend back onto the middle rails with a 6 inch overlap. The middle rails go back towards his middle crossmember which is the mounting point for his rear kickup rails. There will be an x-member fabricated and installed just before the middle crossmember. The kickup rails extend over the rear axles along with the kickdowns. We have actually taken about 3 schooldays to put this together minus the time laying it out on the floor and taking the measurements we need. The whole rear section is tack welded in place and only needs a full bead around both rails and then the frame is complete. We plan on having the steering setup and suspension installed and then installing the x-member before school is over. What I am really proud of is that the whole frame measuring across from the front to rear was only an 1/8th of an inch off of the original frame and the angles of the kickups and the height all the way around matched the original perfectly.

    A few pictures:
    Car at ride height. Keep in mind that he is making it into a gasser which is why it is going to sit this way. (He's not using this body. Was only purchased for mach up)


    The front section (no kickups installed yet). The roundtubing on the front rails was a scrap piece we made to keep the front rails from moving around when welding in the crossmember.



    The 6 inch overlap. This was welded in with tacks 8 tacks around for precautions. The actual welds are 6-8 continous beads around the overlap. We switched sides on the metal after each weld to make sure it would not distort the metal and maintaining level. We ran the beads over the tacks for constant penetration which is why they don't look as pretty as they could.


    The crossmember was welded in place the same way.


    My friend just getting done laying the first bead on the rear frame rails. Done the same way as the others except with a sleeve behind the connection and 8 plug welds all around the main beads.


    My rear frame rail after completion.


    My friend laying a bead on his side of the rear crossmember.


    The master at work...


    Here is where magic happened. We rummaged around in the scrap bin to find metal we could piece together for supports for the rear frame rails. The kickups had to be placed perfectly on the middle crossmember or the rear crossmember could not be bolted to the body. Every angle, length, width and height demensions could be off if it wasn't placed perfectly squared onto the crossmember. We plan on holding the rails up at an estimated height just by looking and onto the crossmember the same way and tack welding the rails onto the crossmember and onto the supports. We planned on braking the tacks later to make needed adjustments. So I am holding the rails up and against the crossmember while he tacks them in place. He gets them tacked and we bring an angle finder over to see what adjustments we are going to need to make. The first angle is fine, and the second, third, fourth and the last angle, which was on the rear crossmember was at 0 which means it was perfectly level. We measured across the length, width, and checked for diamond and every measurement was exact. This was achieved by only looking at it and saying, "Yeah, that looks good enough to tack in place for now." We didn't need to make a single adjustment.


    This is something I am personally proud of. A complete diagram of a side view of the frame. A lot of this layout came from a lot of hard thinking by me. Only the rear rails were made based off of the original frame. The rest of it was custom made off of this layout. Every measurement was based off of this layout and was checked with a layout of the original rear frame rails. We found every length, width, and angle to cut because of this layout.
    -Jonny
    95 Mustang GT
    Slow Bolt On Car

    ModdedMustangs.com

  2. #2
    Senior Member 87notch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    803
    Looks good guys, good luck with the build.

  3. #3
    Banned. shawnsvtcobra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Altoona,Pennsylvania
    Posts
    2,016
    Daamn thats nice work.

  4. #4
    keyboard warrior Mater's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Mt.Pleasant pa 15666
    Posts
    2,832
    thats fawking awsome! Lsx it or cobra motor it!

  5. #5
    Havin A Ball... Screemin3o2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    110
    hehe, thanks guys. I enjoyed the hell out of doing it and i'll keep posting pics of the progress. He was originally going to put an ls1 engine in it but he found a really nice deal on a built 460 so that's what he decided to do. That's all up to him so I just sit back and listen to what he wants to do with it and we build it.
    -Jonny
    95 Mustang GT
    Slow Bolt On Car

    ModdedMustangs.com

  6. #6
    keyboard warrior Mater's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Mt.Pleasant pa 15666
    Posts
    2,832
    bad chioce:D

  7. #7
    Banned
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    329
    Why not narrow the rear frame rails and get some tire under there?

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm lookin at a couple I beams, a couple C channels, a couple castors, and some holes. If I cant put that together for less than 150 I'd shit myself. The one I had in my head was alot larger than those units. I might whip on up. doing everything mid air is a pain in the ass.

  8. #8
    Havin A Ball... Screemin3o2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    110
    He's not making it a drag race car, it's a gasser so he wants the gasser look. Even so those are 30 in tall tires and I'm not sure what the width on the tires are but it's enough.

    If you build a frame bench like that, then it won't be like one of those. Every bit of those beams and rails are perfectly level and squared for measuring purposes. Same thing with the holes. They are a lot more delicate than they look in a picture. If you build them perfectly to scale from one of those, my instructors tell me that they have had students do it in the past and it's not anywhere near cheap.
    Last edited by Screemin3o2; 09-13-2006 at 09:16 PM.
    -Jonny
    95 Mustang GT
    Slow Bolt On Car

    ModdedMustangs.com

Similar Threads

  1. 89 GT Frame Rust Thru
    By Abruzzese in forum Fox-SN95
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 04-10-2013, 11:11 PM
  2. K-frame spacers
    By fran in forum Ford Parts
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-28-2012, 11:52 AM
  3. Where to get frame repaired??
    By White5.0 in forum General Tech
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 06-23-2011, 12:51 PM
  4. Free Futon Frame
    By torchred v6 in forum For Sale
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-08-2010, 04:57 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •