Well, my mustang ran a best of 12.93 @ 109. But I see mustangs with 100 hp less than me running 12.6's, at 104-105. what could be up with my car? I got 1.8 60' times like the other mustangs. I just don't understand it.
Well, my mustang ran a best of 12.93 @ 109. But I see mustangs with 100 hp less than me running 12.6's, at 104-105. what could be up with my car? I got 1.8 60' times like the other mustangs. I just don't understand it.
Chris
2016 Chevrolet Volt
2010 Jetta TDi Cup Edition
1964 Lincoln Continental
And 5 other things that don't run
Well for one thing, I really doubt your HP is as high as you think it is. A stock 4.6 lays down maybe 200 rwhp max, and thats being conservative I'd imagine. Now I understand you've got the eaton, cams, and the meth and a host of other small mods, but I'd guess that car to be 350-400 rwhp max. Those mod motors won't survive with much more power then that, I've seen countless ones bite the dust with even less power.
Not sure what tires your using but I'd recommend a nice set of MT ET Streets. And with your power, I'd also say that a good clutch would definitly help out with your 60's, perhaps a nice Ram HD or spec stage 3. Your trap speed definitly suggests a low 12 sec pass.
Also seat time helps alot as you know, practice practice practice.
07 Silverado
05 R6
Sold: 03 Cobra, Built motor - 2.4 KB - N2O
Well there are a few factors to consider when comparing mph vs. e.t. With a trap speed of 109 and plugging that into the "ideal e.t." formula, a 12.4xx is difinitely within grasp, if not better. The 60' could stand to improve a tenth to a tenth and a half i.e, traction. If your runnin' a 5-speed shift point accuracy and the speed of the shift will most certainly manipulate e.t. as well as mph.
Peak RWHP can be deceiving at times. A lightweight vehicle requires less RWHP to achieve a given MPH than, say a vehicle that weighs 500 lbs. more. Average power production generated in the useable powerband is a more accurate means to judge how fast a vehicle *can accelerate*. Gearing also plays a critical role in multiplying the torque production. There are other factors to consider outside the ones I briefly touched on in this post.
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
KB, I use Nitto 555's; it's in my sig.
Pure Stock, I understand all of those factors (my shifting couldn't of been any faster), but it just seems odd that a car with less mods than me, with gears no steeper than mine running better.
I was told the car was dynoed around 450, so I stuck with it. You guys believe it can't be that high then? It just kinda dumbfounds me. I guess I'll have to try hard as hell to make it to a dyno event with some of you guys here.
BTW, the other mustangs I've seen compared to mine:
Both had street tires, 3.73's, 5-speeds, and 60' times of 1.8x. I'm confident about my launches, and my shifting. I don't know what else to do other than wrinkle-wall slicks.
http://www.steelcitystangs.com/forum...8257#post48257
Last edited by Mitternacht; 07-01-2007 at 09:30 PM.
Chris
2016 Chevrolet Volt
2010 Jetta TDi Cup Edition
1964 Lincoln Continental
And 5 other things that don't run
Thats a small problem right there. Those are ment for street and semi racing, not a good drag tire at all however. I realize comparing our cars is like apples and oranges, but one thing is, ET streets or a nice slick with DEFINITLY help you out. Back when my car made 478 RWHP, I tried running Nittos @ the track. I could never do better then 1.70s and also ran constant 11.90's. I switched to ET streets, my 60's fell to consistent 1.58's and ran 11.50's.
With your power level, I'd reccomend a nice set of MT ET streets 26 x 10.5 x 16, or something close to that. I wouldn't go any higher then a 26" tire however.
07 Silverado
05 R6
Sold: 03 Cobra, Built motor - 2.4 KB - N2O
Chris
2016 Chevrolet Volt
2010 Jetta TDi Cup Edition
1964 Lincoln Continental
And 5 other things that don't run
07 Silverado
05 R6
Sold: 03 Cobra, Built motor - 2.4 KB - N2O
If your able to weigh the stang and then add your weight into it we can get a *estimate* of how much FWHP your producing from the trap speed you previously had. Then in turn we can arrive at RWHP. Another point to look into is the rpm the engine peaks at and what the power curve looks like after peak. Not saying your over-shiftin' it, but being around the track and seeing countless people over-rev combinations damn near 1,000 rpm, it will deteriorate e.t. and mph as well. That is one of the main reasons I dyno flogged my combo as it progressed through different revisions.
If you searching for efficiency it's hard to beat a bias ply tire. Drag radials do work and when set-up properly (read: tuned chassis) they can supply a tremendous amount of traction as well.
If your clutch is slipping in 1st gear I can't imagine what it's doin' in 4th (1:1). Perhaps that is where the mph is getting bled off.
Good Luck man.
-Joe
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
i agree about the clutch.... however, if you wanna know for sure, the clutch will slip the most at the max torque in the top gear... so the rpm where max tq. is reached in 5th gear is where it will be slipping long before it will slip in first gear.... that might be a tough speed to reach on our roads, so as said above, 4th gear is likely the best check for that...
2015 Corvette Z06
- Shark Grey / Kalahari
- bolt-ons, tune, lots of carbon fiber (642/671 rwhp/tq)
Before you go crazy trying to find out why your car isn't running what you think it should, get it to a dyno. I think that might shed some light on performance. Just call hybrid dynamics and tell them you are a member here and you'll get 3 pulls with a/f for 60 bucks I believe. Once you have that info you can procede from there and sort out any other problems you may be having. My .02
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