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Thread: started putting the rear in

  1. #1
    88 5.0 lx conv eddmann55's Avatar
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    started putting the rear in

    started putting the new rear in my car, here's a few pics, going smooth so far, can't wait till it's done im going from 2:73's to 3:73's hope it's a big difference
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Not Bad for 367 SAE RWHP Pure Stock's Avatar
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    man, you'll definitely feel the difference. And you'll be saying, why did I wait this long to do this:D
    2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :

    BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18

  3. #3
    Ninja
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    looks good dude. i went from 2:73's to 3:73's in my 85 gt it was like night and day you will be pleased!
    1985 Mustang GT:Cobra r's.full exhaust.8.8 w/ 3.73's.forged 306 c.i..

  4. #4
    boats n hoes fork5o's Avatar
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    lookin good. should change the control arms while everything is apart
    -Joe
    1995 5.0
    The Car

  5. #5
    88 5.0 lx conv eddmann55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fork5o View Post
    lookin good. should change the control arms while everything is apart


    not a bad idea i was thinking about that. i need new shocks too, im putting 265's on too so i hope that helps, i have 225's and all i do is spin in 1st with the 2'73s (think the tires are junk though) so i know the 3'73s will be worse.

  6. #6
    grip it & rip it
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    yup when i changed out my gears from 2.73 to the 3.73 it was the best thing i ever did for the car... other than putting on the subframe connectors and upper and lower control arms to stop the spinning....
    1989 GT Vert. stock 302 bottom end with ported gt-40 303's, 1.6rr, trick flow street intake, 24lb, b-303 cam, cobra aluminum rad, anderson powerpipe, 76mm c&l, bbk equal lengths, o/r h pipe, 2 chamber flows, 3.73's, 4pt roll bar, full msd ignition, steeda tri-ax, custom sct chip and tune. 265 rwhp/ 279 rwtq

  7. #7
    88 5.0 lx conv eddmann55's Avatar
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    ok im stumped on the e brake cables, the stock drum brake cables wrap around a pullie type thingie, the new cables are not long enough to do that, it's almost like there needs to be a bracket closer to the ebrake handle, any body have any idea what im talking about?

  8. #8
    NEWB daviac5000's Avatar
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    You'll need new cables.

    Copied from http://svo73mm.cjb.net/

    5. Rear Disc Upgrades: '87-88 Ford ThunderBird Turbo Coupe/'93 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes:
    These are 4 lug 10" vented rotors. This is a great swap if you can find the whole rear end! It is a 8.8" rear end, and the stock gear ratio is 3.55 for the manuals, 3.73 for the autos on the Turbo Coupes, and 3.08 on the 93 Cobra. Keep in mind the axle is .75" wider than the stock Mustangs, you will need to adapt the brake lines fittings. The easiest way is to use the drum brake rear hardlines and adapt at the caliper softlines. You need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2" lower on the T-bird axle for the Mustang. For E-Brake cables, you need to purchase use the FMS cables. If you have a '93 vintage, you need to use the '93 Cobra cables. Ford made the '93 E-Brake cables like the Sn95 units with a center mounting in the tranny tunnel. 93 Cobra E-Brake cable #F3ZZ-2A635-A.

    (2)FMS M-2809-A ebrake cables for '87-92 cars, '93 Cobra units for '93 year cars


  9. #9
    88 5.0 lx conv eddmann55's Avatar
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    Got it in, makes a big difference, except for the fact that the rearend i put in I think is JUNK, i looked at it right after i bought it it looked ok inside, but you can probably hear it whining a mile away, well that was a waste of time and money, now i don't know what i'm gonna do, already have $400 into it now i'm gonna have to get it rebuilt, should have just left it alone.

  10. #10
    Hangin' with my toddler. Silverhatch's Avatar
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    It may be junk or may not be shimmed right, OR try putting some friction modifier (I think that is the right name) in it. I purchased mine at a local auto parts store. Mine only made a little whine and it took it right away. It never came back even after about 15k miles with 4.10s. Its worth a shot, and its cheap. If it takes the whine away, it might be in your best interest to pull the cover after a few miles to check to make sure the rear is not wearing abnormally.


  11. #11
    Member badstanglx's Avatar
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    check to see your pinion bolt tight

  12. #12
    88 5.0 lx conv eddmann55's Avatar
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    well rear wasn't junk, glad i just jumped to conclusions, the major whining went away after i drove it a bit, but there was an other noise, it was the rear bearings, easy fix, Wow I can't believe the difference it makes with 3:73's, now i need to work on my traction, 1st is useless if you jump on it, well i guess that's not a bad problem to have so now i need control arms and bigger tires

  13. #13
    Hangin' with my toddler. Silverhatch's Avatar
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    Glad you ironed it out. Nice when problems sometimes take care of themselves.Gears are a great upgrade.


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