Any suggestions? Don’t bottom out the stud… Thread lock? Red or Blue? Or use anti-seize with Teflon? Use a torque wrench or torque angle method? I am using a 302 block (7/16 hole) with an aluminum head with a ½ hole.
Any suggestions? Don’t bottom out the stud… Thread lock? Red or Blue? Or use anti-seize with Teflon? Use a torque wrench or torque angle method? I am using a 302 block (7/16 hole) with an aluminum head with a ½ hole.
On the side that threads into the block use either assembly lube or motor oil and only install finger tight, on top side same thing, either use assembly lube or motor oil for the nuts. Use ARP teflon sealer in the bottom row of bolts that are screwed down into the water jackets of the block that way water & coolant dosent work its way up the threads over time. For torque specs, just use what ARP reccomends for either the oil or assmebly lube. Good luck!!
and always remember, with new studs it is important to give them a pre stretch, this is something that arp recommends (on some apps) but if you talk to there techs they will all tell you it is a good idea, a pre stretch is to just torque them once and loosen them and torque them again.. this way they will not stretch anymore..
2015 A6 Mustang GT that so far has gone 9.48@147 but still the fastest prochargerd S550 in the world aside from Tim Essick's!
www.Rodeheavershotrod.com
when i did mine, ARP told me specifically to not fill the car up with coolant for initial start up. You're supposed to use water, then after it starts and cools your good to change it to coolant.
Roll With The Mill Creek Mafia
709RWHP/750RWTQ
ARPs base studs are such crap these days, the ARP2000's aren't bad and the L19's are awesome, base studs not so much.
Never use moly lube or oil on the block side, in fact clean out all your oil passages so they are clean, run a thread chaser through and clean with spray solvent till they are devoid of oil and grit. Install hand tight. ARP suggests torquing in 3 stages but us high HP guys don't like the way that allows the gasket to essentially "bunch up" between cylinders so we do 10lb increments with LOTS of moly lube.
If you go to the next tq reading and it doesn't move then back the nut off slightly and retorqe, do this as many times as needed until you get to final tq value.
ARPS stretch, even if you prestretch them always retorque after first heatcycle then again after 100 miles.
NEVER EVER EVER TORQUE BEYOND SUGGEST VALUES arps will stretch too far and become damaged.
710whp/520wtq 9.95@145
Bookmarks