How to build a garage for a car guy… (Long post)

[DRRummel]

Imo thats kinda ridiculous....you should be able to build anything you want on your own property....not have to go through the garage nazi's.

HEY... it is 2 months later and 200.00 lighter, but it is done. I jumped thought their hoops and I have what I want. No complaints here. I can deal with it.

[J-rod]

as far as your calculations i would have to look at my strength of materials calulations and get back to you.

honestly if you are going to make a loft for engines and such i wouldnt. carrying an engine up stairs will suck, plus if you only have under 3' left over....its not worth the time and effort. 3' loft really isnt worth it. if anything, maybe put a stud wall up and great a little 3' closet 24' deep to keep your clutter out and everything organized.

your pdf isnt working for me either.

[loutheplumbr]

i would run a 100 amp service to the garage just my $.02 it just gives your more options for the future your utilities running in trenches need to be buried 36"apart. possibly if you get a 4post lift you could use it to lift heavy items to the loft with it and a ramp we use ours and a ladder to change light bulbs over it

[DRRummel]

I can't edit my post....
The pdf is here.
Jared,... no laughing in the forum about my drawing skills...

[DRRummel]

I am about to start building my first, and likely my last garage. I plan on heating the garage to about 40* or 45* at all times to keep batteries and paints and stuff from freezing. It was suggest by Gilroy Racing that I insulate the slab to isolate the cold ground from the slab. At first it sounded like a good idea. But after thinking about it I started having questions on how to do this.

• Will a two post lift on 6 inch concrete cause a problem? I am thinking that the concrete would normally push against solid ground. Now if it is sitting on flexible (compressible) foam. Does the concrete hold all the lifted weight, or does it transfer the weight to the material below it?
• I will need some crush-n-run fill to fill the low side. I believe this fill will need to be tamped before the concrete is poured. So the insulation goes between the earth and the stone? Or between the tamped stone and the slab? Tamping the stone with the insulation underneath will ruin the foam, right?
• I think the sequence is:
  • Pour the footers
  • Call the inspector
  • Built the block wall (below grade and the two knee wall)
  • Call the inspector?
  • Fill in around the foundation walls and the low spots to a level grade.
  • Tamp the fill
  • Install 2” foam installation under slab
  • Install vapor barrier.
  • Pour slab.

[DRRummel]

i would run a 100 amp service to the garage just my $.02 it just gives your more options for the future your utilities running in trenches need to be buried 36"apart. possibly if you get a 4post lift you could use it to lift heavy items to the loft with it and a ramp we use ours and a ladder to change light bulbs over it

Sorry if I left that out... I am absolutely going with a 100 amp service. I picked up a 10 Seer used electric heat pump for free for the garage. The compressor uses 20 amps, but I think the furnace uses 60 amps.
If the heater uses 60 and the lift uses 30, do I have to turn off the lights to lift the car in the dead of winter? Just joking.

Thanks for the information about trench spacing. I will need to know that. Gilroy Racing is going to do the electric. I still need to find a plumber to pull the permits and run the water and natural gas from the house to the garage. The first guy fell though.

[mlowry1260]

I would like to see some compacted crusher-run under the area whaere the lift will go. You'll need to do your compaction & leveling of the fill, then lay down the insulation board. I'd throw some welded wire or rebar int the slab under the area for the lift. It's probaby overkill but, cheap insurance. THe newer stealth fibers improve the concrete resistance to shrinkage cracking & often replace welded wire. A 6" slab is plenty thick if properly poured.

[J-rod]

mlowry is right about the srusher-run and compaction. good points on the utility seperation as well.


poor drawing as well :)

what type of drawing.plans did you submit to planning? hopefully not that. :)

[DRRummel]

I would like to see some compacted crusher-run under the area whaere the lift will go. You'll need to do your compaction & leveling of the fill, then lay down the insulation board. I'd throw some welded wire or rebar int the slab under the area for the lift. It's probaby overkill but, cheap insurance. THe newer stealth fibers improve the concrete resistance to shrinkage cracking & often replace welded wire. A 6" slab is plenty thick if properly poured.

Crush n Run - Crusher run ... I am learning.
I had planned on specifying the fiber fill. Would asking for rebar be the same as the welded rod you were mentioning? The whole 28x32 area should have the compacted crusher run under it. Thanks.

[DRRummel]

mlowry is right about the srusher-run and compaction. good points on the utility seperation as well.


poor drawing as well :)

what type of drawing.plans did you submit to planning? hopefully not that. :)

I will try to scan them and post them this week. They were for zoning so there are all related to the ground plat. As soon as I nail down the garage design I need to submit building plans for the building permits. For under 1000 sq ft they don't require real detailed drawings.

[J-rod]

good deal.

[mlowry1260]

Crush n Run - Crusher run ... I am learning.
I had planned on specifying the fiber fill. Would asking for rebar be the same as the welded rod you were mentioning? The whole 28x32 area should have the compacted crusher run under it. Thanks.

Doug,

crusher run is a mixture of stone from the fines to about 1". The mixture of sizes & angular nature makes it ideal for compacted fill.

Rebar is short for reinforcing steel bars. It's generally heavier or rather larger diameter in size than weld wire reinforcing steel. I don't know the soil type where you live but, rebar is most likely overkill. You could put a grid of #3 or #4 bar arranged in a mat or grid with the bars spaced 12" on center for about 36" square under the the area for the lift posts. That would support a far greater load than the lift will ever generate.

Where are are located in Baltimore? I lived in Hunt Valley/Cockeysville for almost 20 years. I still work at our plant in White Marsh on Rt. 40 once in a while.

[loutheplumbr]

we have always used 2B river gravel under anything we build for fill its a little more expensive but you don't have to compact it as much. the foam insulation board doesn't crush much it is very durable for under floor use

[mlowry1260]

we have always used 2B river gravel under anything we build for fill its a little more expensive but you don't have to compact it as much. the foam insulation board doesn't crush much it is very durable for under floor use

He's correct on the use of stone under the slab. I should clarify that any fill over about 4-6" thick should be compacted crusher-run.

[DRRummel]

Doug,

crusher run is a mixture of stone from the fines to about 1". The mixture of sizes & angular nature makes it ideal for compacted fill.

Rebar is short for reinforcing steel bars. It's generally heavier or rather larger diameter in size than weld wire reinforcing steel. I don't know the soil type where you live but, rebar is most likely overkill. You could put a grid of #3 or #4 bar arranged in a mat or grid with the bars spaced 12" on center for about 36" square under the the area for the lift posts. That would support a far greater load than the lift will ever generate.

Where are are located in Baltimore? I lived in Hunt Valley/Cockeysville for almost 20 years. I still work at our plant in White Marsh on Rt. 40 once in a while.

I am about 5 minutes from the White Marsh Mall, but in the other direction. I am more towards Belair Road and Joppa Road.
So Fiber Fill should be good enough....
The welded rod,... Is that actually rod welded on site, or just the metal wire mesh that can be unrolled into place?
I once helped my Dad tie rebar together by twisting wire straps at the crossings. I could setup a grid and tie it off easily. Say a 4' x 28' area where the lift post should go (two bays). I might also 'pin' the concrete the wall using 12" rebar pieces inserted in the block wall every three feet...
The soil is a very fine sand, almost a mica power.
Is this like going to the mechanic? They charge extra if you help.

[mlowry1260]

I am about 5 minutes from the White Marsh Mall, but in the other direction. I am more towards Belair Road and Joppa Road.
So Fiber Fill should be good enough....
The welded rod,... Is that actually rod welded on site, or just the metal wire mesh that can be unrolled into place?
I once helped my Dad tie rebar together by twisting wire straps at the crossings. I could setup a grid and tie it off easily. Say a 4' x 28' area where the lift post should go (two bays). I might also 'pin' the concrete the wall using 12" rebar pieces inserted in the block wall every three feet...
The soil is a very fine sand, almost a mica power.
Is this like going to the mechanic? They charge extra if you help.

Wow,

you're building the garagemahall in that area. You should certainly have the tallest garage in the neighorhood. I lived off of Carney Rd in Parkville when I first moved there. I can't believe I never met you at Cecil or a SSOTN event.

It would be overkill to do that much rebar. I would put a 4' x 4' grid under where you plan to place each of the lift legs. You can use welded wire in the slab if you want. The stuff in rolls can be a PIA. If you have the readi-mix company add fiber to the mix in the truck you can probably do without welded wire although it wouldn't hurt.

Will you pour it or farm out the flat work? If you use wire mesh, it must be pulled up on regular intervals to allow concrete to encase the wire. Otherwise it lays on the bottom & doesn't mesh with the concrete. Be sure to allow 2" cover under the rebar. You can set bricks under the rebar to keep it off the ground or insulation.

Post up some pics when it's done.

[DRRummel]

Wow,

you're building the garagemahall in that area. You should certainly have the tallest garage in the neighorhood.

Thanks, and it will be the tallest around. I am getting a lot of funny looks, but they did not fight the variance, so I guess they did care that much.

I lived off of Carney Rd in Parkville when I first moved there.

I used to get my hair cut at Nori's on Harford Rd and played paintball with Md. Paintball in that area. Tonight's dinner was a meatball sub from Palmisanos. Do you remember any of those names...

I can't believe I never met you at Cecil or a SSOTN event.

I am just getting started with this evil hobby. I got a late start. Now that the kids are heading to college, I can spend time on my projects.

It would be overkill to do that much rebar. I would put a 4' x 4' grid under where you plan to place each of the lift legs.

WELL... that sounds good, but I am not quite sure where those legs are going to be. I am not even sure which bay will get the first lift. I figured I could cover all the possibilities with a 28x4 rectangle.

Will you pour it or farm out the flat work?

I think I could figure it all out, but I'd rather pay someone to get it done QUICKLY so I can get back to my Mustang project.

[DRRummel]

These are the drawings I needed to file for the variance and get my permit.

www.DRRummel.com/Garage/Drawings

[loutheplumbr]

don't for get your edge insulation and under floor insulation they make a huge difference there should be a thermal break across the garage doors to but most people seem to omit that i can get pictures of what i mean if you need them

[DRRummel]

don't for get your edge insulation and under floor insulation they make a huge difference there should be a thermal break across the garage doors to but most people seem to omit that i can get pictures of what i mean if you need them

Yep. Pictures are required. I don't know that these items are. Thanks.