i was told 1 and 8 should be but im not sure
i was told 1 and 8 should be but im not sure
The ones with the broom!
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
If I could understand the original question a little better. You trying to find top dead on the no.1 cylinder?
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
to find tdc or top dead center, just use a timing light (to be exact) or just pull the #1 plug, put a straw or something that wont damage anything in, and turn the crank until the straw comes up all the way
i actually meant #1 and #6. i know how to put them in time i just wanted to know what other piston besides #1 is supposed to be tdc also. i thought it was #6 but wanted to make sure
Cam timing is relative to specific valve events. The throws on the crankshaft will alter where a piston is in the bore in relation to each other.
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
Man.... you should just bring that poor thing to me and let me fix it,,,
2015 A6 Mustang GT that so far has gone 9.48@147 but still the fastest prochargerd S550 in the world aside from Tim Essick's!
www.Rodeheavershotrod.com
I think you just need to pull the heads, re fix the valves you bent again, put it back together the correct way and drive it. Going off your threads, you had to have put it back together way off timing the second time around. Somehow reading the timing gears wrong. I will bet anything that you bent some more valves.
Rob
1 Monte SS. White.
Banned dates
11/27/08
4/25/11
3/28/12
12/1/12
There are more but that's all that was logged!!!
I would suggest taking it to a professional. If I were you, I would not crank the engine over with the starter until you are sure you won't damage the valves. I'm not sure how the cam was installed in relation to the marks on the gears, but you may need to pull the timing cover to see how it is installed(dot to dot or ?). Then, you may need to reset the valves and make sure the distributor is installed correctly (rotor just touching #1 contact with #1 at TDC). If you don't have a good Haynes or Automotive repair manual, they are well worth $10 and cover a lot of these basics. Good luck.
2016 GT Premium
i just tore it back down again and i have some bent pushrods but no valves thankgod! i would think even with a few pushrods bent that it would still atleast try to start, but it doesnt.
it bent half the pushrods both times. not sure what this means. how do you reset the valves. i know i seem like i dont know what im doing at all but i do to an extent. i just never messed with valves at all yet. once i learn that ill be good to go. im not too sure on how to check for pushrod length either.
I used these instructions to set my valvetrain. It turned out perfect for me, but you have to be very precise. These instructions require you to remove the lower intake. I'm sure many will tell you it can be done without doing this, but I think removing the lower intake gives the best results. It takes a lot of force to bend a hardened pushrod. I would be surprised if nothing else was damaged if you bent pushrods. You have something very, very wrong. It is not a minor thing. Did you check piston to valve clearance? You might want to check how your cam was installed. Comp cams website has some great instructions for installing/checking cam timing. Good Luck. Definetely go get a Haynes or Chilton manual.
Here are the instructions I used to set my valves.
http://dssracing.com/1%20PDF%20INSTR...ker%20info.pdf
2016 GT Premium
the heads are pedastel mount, so now what?
Hydraulic Lifter/Valve Adjustment
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.
2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.
4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.
Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.
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