I used to run AFR 185's with an F cam on my stock 302 for a whole season. I didn't have to fly cut my pistons :) There is a big power gains going with 185's over 165's. We see customers all the time that are upset with the low power gains with the 165's. I'd love to put 185's on my 91 Notch, but with all those knock off heads on the market for half the price I bought a set of Victor Jr knock off heads. The only thing is I know I'm going to have to fly cut my stock pistons.
Chris Kauffman
2000 Vortech'ed Saleen replica
1991 302 LX notch Saleen replica
1988 408LX drag car
1988 460LX drag car (new project)
Jason, Kevin will beat AD, trust me on that. :D Brian is a great person to buy from too though.
Chris, how much PTV clearance did you have? As far as I know, only the TW and holley heads will clear the factory pistons with their 2.02" intake valves. the TW gets away with it due to the valve location, the holley gets away with it due to the valve being recessed into the chamber further than most.
As for the TW versus AFR debate... they are both great heads and in the end it all comes down to the combination. This topic has been beat to death so many times that if anyone wants more information all they have to do is check the corral or hardcore, there should be enough reading on the subject to last until PRP opens for next years season. LOL!
-Paul
1995 GT 'vert
Best times on old 302 combo:
12.03 at 112.5mph NA
Best time with 9:1 compression NA dart block 331 setup:
11.50 at 121mph
Dyno'd: 415rwhp/410rwtq
2004 Z16 commemorative edition Z06
100% stock: 11.9 at 118mph
Here's what to do www.totalengineairflow.com
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
LOL!
Or go here...
http://www.flowtechinduction.com
Sorry Joe, I wasn't going to do it but you had to go and put up a Tooley link. :D
To the original poster, there are a LOT of options available to you if you want to get into the custom stuff. Joe put up his favorite and I put up mine, but there are also others out there. You will find that most people tend to be very loyal to the person they chose if they were satisfied with their work. If you want to stick with box stock stuff and a "budget" build then really I don't see a need for you to get anything custom what-so-ever except for maybe a cam. The custom cam offerings are typically not much more expensive than some of the newer technology cams available off the shelf. The older alphabet cams and such are substantially cheaper, but there are much better cam profiles available today.
Is there a specific 1/4 miles ET/MPH that you want, or a certain HP number?
I still think that the best budget combo available is a ford explorer/mercury mountaineer long block with the GT40P heads (they recieved these mid year during the '97 production run). These can be had fairly cheaply, and with a cam swap and a head mill you should be in the upper 200's in terms of rwhp for far less than your budget if you plan it right. There have been a few guys getting to the 290's but I don't recall anyone yet topping 300rwhp.
-Paul
1995 GT 'vert
Best times on old 302 combo:
12.03 at 112.5mph NA
Best time with 9:1 compression NA dart block 331 setup:
11.50 at 121mph
Dyno'd: 415rwhp/410rwtq
2004 Z16 commemorative edition Z06
100% stock: 11.9 at 118mph
Here is a combo I found on the corral. The combo consists of a stock shortblock, GT-40P's (ported), the infamous "F" alphabet cam, a rpm efi intake(ported), 75mm T.B., Pro-M 77 MAF, Tremec trans, and a vehicle weight of 3180. N/A e.t. 11.94@115.1 This combo was daily driven according to the author of the reply.
Makes me want to build one on the cheap.
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
Thanks Paul. All I am looking for is to rebuild my engine and add some power to it. I was hoping to surpass 300HP rear wheel, while trying to do it as cheaply as possible. This is, and will be, a daily driver. It will never be raced (on the track) and eventually will be a show car (hopefully someday). The reason for my choice in cams is that I heard that was the best cam for what I want (B303). I want an agreesive cam with a SERIOUS lope/idle. I want it to be loud and sound mean.
Edelbrock Performer Heads, BBK Ceramic Long Tube Headers, BBK O/R H-Pipe, BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back, FRPP King Cobra Clutch, FRPP 3.73 Gears, FRPP Chrome Cobra Upper/Lower Intake, FRPP Chrome Polished Valve Covers, Chrome Alternator, Ford B303 Cam, Holley Fuel Pressure Regulator, 70mm Edelbrock TB, 75mm Pro-M MAF, #24 Ford Injectors, Crane 1.7 Rockers
Here's a short little vid I made of my 5.0 at idle. Not the best quality, I was just playing around with the idle to get it to sound just right. I can try to e-mail you the original if you want, it's a little better quality quicktime video. I have the exact same exhaust setup as you, bbk longtubes w/ matching o/r h and 2 chamber flows. The cam is a comp cams XE274 .555 intake, .565 exhaust I think are the lift specs... http://media.putfile.com/Cammed-50
2015 Charger Hellcat
2.4" upper pulley, ID1300 injectors, BAP, E85 tune, Cat Delete Pipes, One Piece Drive Shaft, Diff Brace, 305/35/20 555R's for the street and 305/45/18 MT ET Street R's for the track. 9.97@142 Best ET
85 GT
Heads and Cam plus other bolt ons
73 F250
Lifted, 35's, 460 4spd
Real name = Ray
Edelbrock Performer Heads, BBK Ceramic Long Tube Headers, BBK O/R H-Pipe, BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back, FRPP King Cobra Clutch, FRPP 3.73 Gears, FRPP Chrome Cobra Upper/Lower Intake, FRPP Chrome Polished Valve Covers, Chrome Alternator, Ford B303 Cam, Holley Fuel Pressure Regulator, 70mm Edelbrock TB, 75mm Pro-M MAF, #24 Ford Injectors, Crane 1.7 Rockers
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