2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
Bish, you speaking of Nate?
EVOL302GT
1990 LX -SOLD- now SVTGT's car
1987 GT >cobra inspired
1984 Chevy Silverado shortbed- 305 monster
so how much would i add percentage wise for the crank hp i know that the dyno numbers are the only one that matters but just was wondering? and troll is that how people come up with factory freak because they have more hp maybe from the ones they didnt test or etc etc.
In post #7 you mention that combo generated 264 RWHP and 288 RWTQ with the automatic. I am going out on a limb here, so say the percentage of loss for your automatic is in the *range* of 20%-22%. We'll go with 22%.
264 RWHP converts to an approximate 338 FWHP
288 RWTQ coverts to an approximate 369 FWTQ
same numbers with 20% loss:
330 FWHP
360 FWTQ
I am not certain the percentage of loss attributed to the transmission in your application. Gives you an idea though.
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
damn thats crazy troll i hope i got a good robot on my block lol. and thanks pure stock for the percentage calculation. that was the dyno i did at speed nation with JUST bolt ons. so if im rougly 300 on just bolt ons on the dyno i should be way over the 330 estimates correct or did i just fall in the twilight zone of grasping this concept
If it's making 300 to the tires, it's most likely yielding 375-385 to the flywheel. *IF* 20%-22% is an accurate representation of what the automatics soak up.
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
so are those pretty good n/a numbers? i mean i know they are nice numbers but for my setup are they pretty stout numbers or should they be more or less. thanks for all your help pure stock, troll, and everyone else for your input an estimates
300 + RWHP is stout from 284 cubic inches. I'm not well researched with 4.6L 2V combos. I'm kinda stuck in the "past" with the pushrod mills. Good luck with testing.
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
agreed not real good with the numbers of the 2 valve motors either, but a buddy of mine has a 5.4 in a 04 roush. it is a stock crank stock bore motor but does have dome pistons in it and compression is up there a little. also has cams not sure on the specs, it put down 368hp i believe which i thought was pertty good for it here is a video from when he had it out in cali remember even with out the hood lol this car is heavy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c37l3K04kTA still has some bugs being worked out with it
troll i know you were kidding lol and im just trying to figure out a ball park of what my car will make on dyno and makes now. alot of people ask me what i make and i have nothing to say ijust say i made this on bolt ons so its prolly a big increase from that is what i say. i have seen 2v combos on the internet that i just find ridiculous and i have no idea how they make some numbers, i figured i would ask you guys since you have more dyno experience and have diffrent opinions. im just not looking forward to how much the dyno tune is gunna cost. and fastfox your buddies roush is very nice. does a hood not fit on it? i love the sheetmetal intake.
no hes having a hard time finding one he likes and fitsm, that intake is crazy he paid like 1200 dollars for it, its a logan custom intake
decent info stolen from the corral on same question as yours:
A full bolt-on GT will make around 260rwhp with a good tune, give or take 10hp. The 10hp can easily be attributed to a better/worse tune, weather, or dyno type/calibration. Another thing, regardless of what people will BS you with. There is no such thing as a "factory freak". The cars make what they make. After that, it comes down to the driver to use that hp to it's fullest potential.
So, here it is. Stock mustang/bolt-on mustang Sticky facts;
1) A stock Mustang GT makes are 220-230rwhp.
2) Full bolt-on with a good tune. 260rwhp +/- 10hp
3) Full bolt-on with cams/tune - 280-300rwhp
4) Full bolt-on with cams/heads/tune - 300-340rwhp
5) Bone stock car with 100-150 shot or the equivalent boost from a supercharger, gears and sticky tires will make more power and be faster than all of the above!
6) Bolt-ons, besides gears and sticky tires are a waste of money, until you have heads/cams, nitrous, supercharger, or a turbo.
Until the motor is being restricted on the intake or exhaust side, you're not going to see any significant gains. If you're going for big power or speed, wasting $1000's on little bolt-ons to gain a maximum of 40hp, is just stupid. Once you're actually making some significant power over stock from either heads/cams or a power adder. Then you will actually see a decent gain from these bolt-ons. That is because the potential of the engine is now being restricted by the factory intake/exhaust, plenum, etc.
2019 Colorado ZR2
thats some nice info troll. thanks. troll did you get yours dyno tune or just handheld? an about that logan intake thats crazy on that price. i always liked the p51 intake manifold it dropped from the 1400 to like 700 i believe. i hear its better than the bullit intake dunno though.
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