I need suggestions on 4.6 mod motor cams....I want the car to still be streetable but i want to be able to tell its cammed just when its idling...anyone got any ideas? And secondly, what other mods do cams require? Thanks for the help guys. Clark.
I need suggestions on 4.6 mod motor cams....I want the car to still be streetable but i want to be able to tell its cammed just when its idling...anyone got any ideas? And secondly, what other mods do cams require? Thanks for the help guys. Clark.
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1931 Ford Model A - Project
1991 BMW 325iX
1978 Ford F150
1952 Ford F2 - Project
2001 Mustang GT - gone but never forgotten. RIP.
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1931 Ford Model A - Project
1991 BMW 325iX
1978 Ford F150
1952 Ford F2 - Project
2001 Mustang GT - gone but never forgotten. RIP.
Go to corral, modular depot and modular powerhouse and search your a$$ off
I don't want to smash your dreams, but you're never going to get both of the things you're looking for. I got Comp Cams xe262ah in mine which are kinda like everyone else's "stage 1". The RPM range on their website says 1,800-5,800. I think it runs great and it picked up power throughout the entire rev range. BUT, it sounds stock at idle. If you get a cam that sounds like a cam, you're going to have to rev that poor stock bottom end to somewhere past 6,000 rpms to get to your peak hp number. My peak hp number went from about 5,100 (stock with other bolt-ons) to about 5,500.
I'm not going to act like I know 2% about cams. I decided to go with an off-the-shelf deal that I could use the stock springs with and still go s/c in the future if I want. You can find a Stage 1, 2, 3 or crazier custom stuff from Cushman (old VT) and a whole slew of other companies that will be a bit more aggressive, but not really suited for daily drivability or forced induction. You have to decide want you want for the future and you have to choose one thing or the other. Personally, I would not get cams just for the sound. That's really expensive and you'll lose some bottom end and have to rev the thing to the moon to get your power. I don't think that's worth it for noise. Get a milder street cam and put an evil 3" straight-through exhaust on there if you want noise.
2019 Colorado ZR2
[ I don't think that's worth it for noise. Get a milder street cam and put an evil 3" straight-through exhaust on there if you want noise. [/quote]
thanks for all that info adam, i see what your saying now....it makes much more sense than my original plan.
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1931 Ford Model A - Project
1991 BMW 325iX
1978 Ford F150
1952 Ford F2 - Project
2001 Mustang GT - gone but never forgotten. RIP.
can anyone else help? If anyone else has their 4.6 2v cammed up tell me about it! lol
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1931 Ford Model A - Project
1991 BMW 325iX
1978 Ford F150
1952 Ford F2 - Project
2001 Mustang GT - gone but never forgotten. RIP.
Why is a certain stall required on some of them?
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1931 Ford Model A - Project
1991 BMW 325iX
1978 Ford F150
1952 Ford F2 - Project
2001 Mustang GT - gone but never forgotten. RIP.
Most of the cams for the 2v require at least a 2400 stall, which isn't really worth your time. Personally I would do the Comp 262's like Troll or the VT stage 1's and pair them with at least a 3500 stall. That should give you a decent street setup with a little more for the track.
Dennis
2006 GTO
Gone but not forgotten
2015 SHO
Mostly stock
2014 Cruze
Living the MPG life
Oh and the reason a higher stall is needed is that the cams move up your rpm range so you won't have as much low end and your car will be sluggish off idle when you get on it
Dennis
2006 GTO
Gone but not forgotten
2015 SHO
Mostly stock
2014 Cruze
Living the MPG life
Yeah I have about the same question,but only for a 5.0 ,I want the damn thing to barely idle.I have noticed that Ford racing explains exactly what each of there cams "SHOULD" do for you.
What type of modifications do you have?
http://www.streetlethalperformance.net
Let us know your parts needs! We will work to get you the lowest possible price!
Intake,underdrive pulleys,4.10 gears.I am just getting started on it really.Goin in for the sub frame next weekend before i get any other mods and untill the kenne bell fund grows a little.
Replied to your pm.
http://www.streetlethalperformance.net
Let us know your parts needs! We will work to get you the lowest possible price!
I don't know if you checked this out in the Modular Muscle section when I got this thing dyno'd, but here's the graph. Some peeps might argue that this is STD and not SAE, but if you take ~5% or so off these numbers, you're still at ~280hp/300tq at the wheels. This is aforementioned cams, cai, 75mm tb, upper plenum, u/d pulleys, lt's, o/r x, flowmasters EDIT: SCT II programmer. It actually feels like it picked up a few ponies after the Magnapack cat-back, but I'll wait until the next SCS dyno day to check that out.
Last edited by Troll; 09-09-2008 at 10:19 PM.
2019 Colorado ZR2
hey wats up, and troll is correct, i have crower stage 2 cams and wouldnt trade them for the world, i did not need a stall with them, and they have a real sick idle, i can get a vid for you if you want of a start up. IMHO i wouldnt get stage 1 cams, if you plan on upgrading more in the future your not gunna gain as much with the stage 1 cams, and your going to want to change them anyways for that idle and power your looking for. stage 1 cams are a waste unless you just do minor things and never plan on doing some serious upgrades like a built engine or boost. just my 2 cents. ( im not saying you dont gain power with stage 1 cams i just think if your gunna do cams you might as well upgrade them good)
oh ok these ones? http://www.crower.com/cgi-bin/detail...rod_id=62801-2 what kinda gains did you get?
Last edited by 2001GTTT; 05-03-2008 at 03:47 AM.
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1931 Ford Model A - Project
1991 BMW 325iX
1978 Ford F150
1952 Ford F2 - Project
2001 Mustang GT - gone but never forgotten. RIP.
I agree with most of what you say Punisher, but like stated above... you got a built bottom and p/p heads, correct? On a stock block and heads, the biggest, most aggressive cam you can find is not necessarily the "best" cam for that application. Like I said to Clark earlier, he needs to figure out what his future goals are for the engine. The cams should probably be one of the last pieces of your puzzle.
2019 Colorado ZR2
im not sure clark on that link, but i got my cams from rpmoutlet.com and they are a hell of a lot cheaper than direct from crower, mine are the stg 2, not the stg 2 supercharged ones. im sure the stage3 an 4's are a bit more rough at idle, but im pretty sure they require a stall. here is the link http://rpmoutlet.com/musv8cam.htm get the good valve springs right off the bat, and get cam gears, your tearing it all apart you might as well do it right the first time, instead of doing it 3 times. if your going to supercharge your car, i would get the supercharged cams and wait til you get the supercharger to put them on, i would say that the stg3 an 4 cams are not to daily driving friendly but im not sure.
Troll, yes i do have a built bottom end, and p/p pi heads
but i do agree he must figure out his future goals before going forward in purchasing cams.
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