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Thread: Building 306 , need your opinion/suggestions

  1. #1
    Crazy Bosnian Slow5.0's Avatar
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    Building 306 , need your opinion/suggestions

    Ok here is a deal
    I was going to build 347 using stock 302 block and then put some boost from turbo ,but since 347 and boost will kill stock block quickly i decide to stick with 306 and turbo

    Local machine shopw will do machining stock block and local Ford engine bulder will install all parts

    Now questions are:
    What parts i gonna need to to complete this whole project (main gridle.......,i talkin about bottom end,so top end and fuel parts are left for other thread)

    Also should i go with CHP or DSS kit

    Boost will be whatever i need to make around 450HP just to keep safe and crack block
    Heads i gonna use are mine TFS TW and does anyone knows what CC pistons i need to made 9.0:1 compression with TW heads

    Also what crankshaft i should use one that need 50,28 or 0 oz ballance

    BTW don't try make me go with aftermarket block because i wanna stick with stock block for some time

    Thank you
    Ernan aka Ernie

    '94 GT Vert

    12.76 @ 105 w/ bad clutch 4050lbs 1.8 60FT

    TW heads,B-31 AFM cam..... MORE

    312HP / 340TQ with safe tune

    "A few" pics of my car

    My "Slow5.0 Compilation" video from the begining

    My "Slow5.0 Dyno Compilation" video


    04 Lincoln Navi


    WTB 94-95 5.0 smog pump

  2. #2

    I wouldn't put much money in a stock block

    just rebuild a 87-92 short block and run it untill you can afford a good block. you can make 450hp with hci and about 10psi. just my .02
    1969 Camaro restomod/project
    1967 camaro
    2011 mustang procharged
    93 reef blue notch blk/int
    92 calypso notch blk/int
    86 t-type
    1972 chevelle project
    Not only did I fail at building a fast mustang but I bought a yellow zo6 cause I couldn't get my little dick up.

  3. #3
    Crazy Bosnian Slow5.0's Avatar
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    Thats what i going to do , just nmeed some infos on what parts/internals i should use
    Ernan aka Ernie

    '94 GT Vert

    12.76 @ 105 w/ bad clutch 4050lbs 1.8 60FT

    TW heads,B-31 AFM cam..... MORE

    312HP / 340TQ with safe tune

    "A few" pics of my car

    My "Slow5.0 Compilation" video from the begining

    My "Slow5.0 Dyno Compilation" video


    04 Lincoln Navi


    WTB 94-95 5.0 smog pump

  4. #4
    Not Bad for 367 SAE RWHP Pure Stock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow5.0 View Post
    Thats what i going to do , just nmeed some infos on what parts/internals i should use
    That would "depend" on the operating range of the mill.
    2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :

    BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18

  5. #5

    I would use the stock rotating ass.

    its good to 10's no problem with 10 psi
    1969 Camaro restomod/project
    1967 camaro
    2011 mustang procharged
    93 reef blue notch blk/int
    92 calypso notch blk/int
    86 t-type
    1972 chevelle project
    Not only did I fail at building a fast mustang but I bought a yellow zo6 cause I couldn't get my little dick up.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Rodeheaver's's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow5.0 View Post
    Ok here is a deal
    I was going to build 347 using stock 302 block and then put some boost from turbo ,but since 347 and boost will kill stock block quickly i decide to stick with 306 and turbo

    Local machine shopw will do machining stock block and local Ford engine bulder will install all parts

    Now questions are:
    What parts i gonna need to to complete this whole project (main gridle.......,i talkin about bottom end,so top end and fuel parts are left for other thread)

    Also should i go with CHP or DSS kit

    Boost will be whatever i need to make around 450HP just to keep safe and crack block
    Heads i gonna use are mine TFS TW and does anyone knows what CC pistons i need to made 9.0:1 compression with TW heads

    Also what crankshaft i should use one that need 50,28 or 0 oz ballance

    BTW don't try make me go with aftermarket block because i wanna stick with stock block for some time

    Thank you
    as far as a block a stock will take yah pretty far if you install a main girdle and pollish the lifter valley and some other stuff, I sell 4-bolt 302block for 800$ that have all the machine work done, these were stock blocks with the billet caps installed, AS far as the crank, if you are gonna get good strong aftermarket stuff you should get 0 balence, that is the best for racing because you get the weight toward the center of the crank
    2015 A6 Mustang GT that so far has gone 9.48@147 but still the fastest prochargerd S550 in the world aside from Tim Essick's!
    www.Rodeheavershotrod.com

  7. #7
    Senior Member Killercanary's Avatar
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    As was said Ernan, I don't see the point in putting expensive forged pieces in a stock block, girdle or not. I would put forged pistons in with the stock rods with upgraded ARP rod bolts (I think Ed Curtis still has a few sets of stock reconditioned rods with ARP bolts made up for under $100, I had a set and then sold them when I went with my new shortblock), and the stock crank. I totally agree that 0 balance is the way to go, but I wouldn't waste the money on mallory and machine time to have it zero balanced at this point. Just stick with the 50oz, keep the RPM's under 6000, and boost away. There will be no need to rev this thing and it'll live longer assuming the tune is spot on with the decreased rev's. You should have no problem easily exceeding your goal of 450HP with less than 10lbs of boost and keeping the rev's below 6000 with a turbo setup. Size the turbo properly and you'll have a wicked combo with stump pulling torque all the way through the RPM range.
    -Paul

    1995 GT 'vert
    Best times on old 302 combo:
    12.03 at 112.5mph NA
    Best time with 9:1 compression NA dart block 331 setup:
    11.50 at 121mph
    Dyno'd: 415rwhp/410rwtq


    2004 Z16 commemorative edition Z06
    100% stock: 11.9 at 118mph




  8. #8
    Crazy Bosnian Slow5.0's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul and rest of you guys
    Now i was wandering what brand pistons i shoud buy
    I think i should buy main girdle (just cheap insurance) but which one and from where to buy one
    What about O-ringed my heads or meybe deck too or just go with better head gaskets
    What oil pan i should buy and is there any aftermarket oil pan that will fit with X brace that verts have or i have to remove X brace
    Ernan aka Ernie

    '94 GT Vert

    12.76 @ 105 w/ bad clutch 4050lbs 1.8 60FT

    TW heads,B-31 AFM cam..... MORE

    312HP / 340TQ with safe tune

    "A few" pics of my car

    My "Slow5.0 Compilation" video from the begining

    My "Slow5.0 Dyno Compilation" video


    04 Lincoln Navi


    WTB 94-95 5.0 smog pump

  9. #9
    Senior Member Rodeheaver's's Avatar
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    i have had great luck with probe girdles, the dss are nice but way to much money! i am pretty sure any oil pan will work with the X brace..
    2015 A6 Mustang GT that so far has gone 9.48@147 but still the fastest prochargerd S550 in the world aside from Tim Essick's!
    www.Rodeheavershotrod.com

  10. #10
    Yellow is faster!
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    Ernan,

    As Paul said, as long as you don't plan on anything over 6k you should be fine with stock rods. I don't know if the pistons are the same on the 94-95s as the fox roller motors. But with the TW I think the compression ratio is already around 9 if not lower, because of the rather large 64cc chamber.

    Later
    Jason

  11. #11
    Not Bad for 367 SAE RWHP Pure Stock's Avatar
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    Standard TW's and Track heat TW's have 61 cc combustion chambers and will put a stock shortblock close to 9:1 compression. Head gasket thickness will alter the number somewhat though. These are the TW's with the 170 cc intake runner.
    2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :

    BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18

  12. #12
    Crazy Bosnian Slow5.0's Avatar
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    Well my heads supposed to be milled 0.040 and guy told me heads now should have 59 cc combustion

    All i know when i install AFM B-31 cam .544 lift , intake valves touching pistons ,so we fly cut pistons in car and get 0.110 clearance
    This mechanic who helped me install h/c do math ans he said c/r is same is stock because of fly cutting pistons
    Ernan aka Ernie

    '94 GT Vert

    12.76 @ 105 w/ bad clutch 4050lbs 1.8 60FT

    TW heads,B-31 AFM cam..... MORE

    312HP / 340TQ with safe tune

    "A few" pics of my car

    My "Slow5.0 Compilation" video from the begining

    My "Slow5.0 Dyno Compilation" video


    04 Lincoln Navi


    WTB 94-95 5.0 smog pump

  13. #13
    Tripedalist yeahloh95's Avatar
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    do you have any more specs on that cam the lift is the same as mine and i have an off the shelf comp.
    Troy
    95 gt 11.3 @ 126
    68 f100 SB soon to be coyote powered
    12 GT 6m cobra jet powered 11.4 @124
    90 lx supercharged 440 rwhp on 8 lbs
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    PEOPLE HAVE MORE FUN THAN ANYONE

  14. #14
    Crazy Bosnian Slow5.0's Avatar
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    Sure

    B-31 cam specs:
    Advertised duration @ .006____ 270/280
    Duration @ 0.050____________ 218/228
    Lobe lift @ cam______________.340/.340
    Gross cam lift with 1.6________ .544/.544
    LSA________________________112
    Ernan aka Ernie

    '94 GT Vert

    12.76 @ 105 w/ bad clutch 4050lbs 1.8 60FT

    TW heads,B-31 AFM cam..... MORE

    312HP / 340TQ with safe tune

    "A few" pics of my car

    My "Slow5.0 Compilation" video from the begining

    My "Slow5.0 Dyno Compilation" video


    04 Lincoln Navi


    WTB 94-95 5.0 smog pump

  15. #15
    Not Bad for 367 SAE RWHP Pure Stock's Avatar
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    If I were you here is what I'd do. Call DSS racing and pick up one of there Super Pro Bullet 306 assembled shortblocks. With 59 cc combustion chambers in your TW's you can get away with a flat top piston and retain a blower friendly compression ratio. For $2819.95 you get the 306 shortblock with -3 cc pistons. You also get a main support system that ties in the mains. That will not solve the issue of block splittage but can aid in the reduction of main cap walk. They also include an o-ringed deck.

    Once you have the shortblock in this form all it takes is bolting the cylinder heads on, intake installation and the other peripherals. You can have them install a cam as well. They also can include an oil pan for the shortblock.(Although I wouldn't recommend it for it's cost VS. an aftermaket pan, i.e., Canton Products)

    Keeping the rpm's to a conservative degree will prolong the life of a stock block build.

    Your goal of 450 rwhp can be attained with a stock block that is rpm limited and tuned accordingly AND still be reliable (not wiping out bearings, etc.)

    In addition you made a good move with the TW's. You can always resell them or have them ported by TEA. They have cnc programs that enhance airflow through CNC'd programs. These cylinder heads have some great attributes about them that contribute to excellent power. Decreasing the valve angle of the TW's allows for unshrouding of the intake valve, elevated mid-lift air flow, and they also create more room for the rocker arm in relation to the valve cover. The spark plug location has also been revised and creates an enhanced combustion, an increase in mid-lift airflow, and more integrity in the combustion chamber itself.

    You may want to look into Harland Sharpe's offering for roller rockers. They make a specific rocker with an off-set pushrod cup to alleviate a mis-alignment that "can" occur as the rocker is cycled.

    The cam that you have chosen should work great with the combo listed above, with the decreased valve drop offered by the TW's and the valve reliefs in the DSS flat tops a more agressive cam "could" be chosen at the cost of reliability (read: increased rpm)

    With 450rwhp+ on tap and a vehicle weight of 4050 lbs. you "should" see trap speeds around 118 mph. Definitely good for some mid to high 11's depending on suspension and the other 6 million variables. Good Luck!
    Last edited by Pure Stock; 12-09-2006 at 03:45 AM.
    2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :

    BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18

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