subframe connectors

**jaa55** · 06-02-2008, 09:21 PM

i was looking at getting some subframe connectors. i came across a set of weld in's that look like they weld to the subframe and out to the rocker, whats the benefit of a connector like this over the traditional ones??

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000016c

**Rodeheaver's** · 06-03-2008, 12:09 AM

those are made to be put on with regular frame connectors, and those are called "jacker bars" they are more for road racing when side to side flex is taking place..

**jaa55** · 06-03-2008, 07:20 PM

oh ok, cj pony parts didnt really didnt give a good description of them. i see how they would help from twisting. i didnt know you would have to add regular ones to make them work. thanks for the info!

**DING** · 06-04-2008, 10:05 AM

Those would also be good for drag racing. I have through the floor sub frame connectors from Team Z Motorsports they tie into the rocker panels and the frame. They are 2x2 box metal. Probably overkill for what you would need. But those in your link would be better than some cheap straight bars.

Also you may check out Laurel Mountain Mustang I know they sell sub frames.

I attached a picture of my car.

**Martin0660** · 06-04-2008, 11:18 AM

I have the fulll lenth one from LLM. Fit great, good price, and tied the cr together quite well.

Bob Myers

**Rodeheaver's** · 06-04-2008, 11:23 AM

throught the floors are the BEST but kinda pricey, the lmm one are nice and strong or i make my own to suite your needs for 250$ installed.. just ask around there are a bunch of people on this site that have em..

**DING** · 06-04-2008, 11:48 AM

Originally Posted by Rodeheaver's

throught the floors are the BEST but kinda pricey, the lmm one are nice and strong or i make my own to suite your needs for 250$ installed.. just ask around there are a bunch of people on this site that have em..

Yeah they weren't cheap but nothing in racing is...lol

**Rodeheaver's** · 06-04-2008, 11:51 AM

Originally Posted by DING

Yeah they weren't cheap but nothing in racing is...lol

i mean think about it, if you weigh out your options, i think its a better investment to get the through the floor connectors out of the gate then its done and you will never have to worry about it again, but people hate to pay for all of that, but really IMO its worth it but it is 5 times the price..

**DING** · 06-04-2008, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by Rodeheaver's

i mean think about it, if you weigh out your options, i think its a better investment to get the through the floor connectors out of the gate then its done and you will never have to worry about it again, but people hate to pay for all of that, but really IMO its worth it but it is 5 times the price..

Building a race car is like building a house... You need a good foundation to start with. If you spend the money up front an build a sterdy chassis. You never have to worry about it again. Getting by with something is just that getting by sooner or later you WILL spend the money on it. Trust me I know.

**blizzard** · 06-04-2008, 03:01 PM

yeah, i have the older steeda tubulars and always thought they really can't be that strong ?? through-the-floor does seem overkill tho, but i may have to switch up to something better ?? i don't think $250 is bad considering all the weld/fab that goes into it.

**biminiLX** · 06-04-2008, 03:24 PM

Originally Posted by DING

Building a race car is like building a house... You need a good foundation to start with. If you spend the money up front an build a sterdy chassis. You never have to worry about it again. Getting by with something is just that getting by sooner or later you WILL spend the money on it. Trust me I know.

Definitely agree.
I also have the TeamZs and they are sweet.
If its a street car and you're never going to get a cage, just do a nice full-length set. They still make a BIG difference on street cars.
-J

**jaa55** · 06-05-2008, 08:09 AM

ok guys thanks for the advice! i dont think ill need something as stiff as the through floors, ill hunt for a set of full lengths at laurel mountain.

**Shorty429** · 07-07-2008, 01:30 AM

Hey jaa55, i think i saw your car at get-n-go in delmont. was that you??

**jaa55** · 07-15-2008, 08:25 PM

Sorry shorty429 i havent checked this thread in a while, yes i bet it was me. i go to monroeville that way. was there a blonde in the car with me by any chance?

**Tony71502** · 12-23-2008, 12:47 PM

Originally Posted by biminiLX

Definitely agree.
I also have the TeamZs and they are sweet.
If its a street car and you're never going to get a cage, just do a nice full-length set. They still make a BIG difference on street cars.
-J

If you were getting a cage you wouldn't recommend full lengths?

**biminiLX** · 12-23-2008, 02:35 PM

Originally Posted by Tony71502

If you were getting a cage you wouldn't recommend full lengths?

I would probably just do through the floors if you're having a cage done, but if you don't want to do that much the full-length subs would be 2nd best.
Funny because I have both---didn't want to cut out the full-length subs from before the cage because they help run the fuel lines and make good jack points.
-J

**torqueboxer** · 12-28-2008, 08:55 PM

nobody seems to know about them but i bought a set from a place in texas called "mcclure racing" the best subframe connectors by far they have an extra plate that the lower control arm bolt goes through and will "eliminate" any lower torquebox damage from happening EVER!! i swear by them, ive told eveeryone i know about them in hopes people will buy them so they will keep making them in the future. thats what i swear by